*sigh* It gets worse...

On or around Thu, 22 Jul 2004 07:40:13 +0100, "Paul - xxx" enlightened us thusly:

did you ask 'em?

I do my disco ones up to 100 lb-ft, and they've never come loose yet. In fact, since my torque wrench is old, they're probably less than that. Really must stop leaving it set for high torques...

Reply to
Austin Shackles
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I swapped a 1600 crossflow into a lightened Anglia body outside the house. If you found the right Ford parts (Corsair clutch housing I think) it just bolted on but the exhaust was a fabricate and weld job. This was in the middle of Brighton.

Ditto. Early 70s. I was brave then. These days I put the HSE into the shop for brake pads I'm ashamed to say.

nigelH

Reply to
Nigel Hewitt

Did mine 7 miles away - scary small world!

Reply to
Mother

I helped change a 38T truck gearbox in a little cul-de-sac near Buxton once!

Truck broke down (load bang, bits of gearbox strewn down the road!) so we pushed it into this very posh looking cul-de-sac, left it there, and came back the next morning with another gearbox. The locals couldn't have been friendlier, normally when you so much as park a truck in a street like that, you get moaned at, the sight of two extremely oily fitters crawling all over the back of this thing was greeted with friendly hello's all day, I think they must have felt sorry for us!

Reply to
SimonJ

In message , Judith writes

My local independent is excellent an all thing Land Rover - EXCEPT that they too will insist on tightening the nuts on my alloys so bloody tight I can barely shift them. Set to correct toque they are quite easily removed.

Reply to
hugh

Hm? A few people have now mentioned that "professionals" over-tighten wheel nuts. Do you reckon I'd get funny looks if I went round to kwik fit (for example) and asked them to correctly loosen/re-tighten my wheel nuts? There's no way I can shift the nuts myself at the moment but, as you say, they're removable when correctly torqued.

All I really need is a gorilla with a compressed air wheel-nut-remover to get them off. I can put them back on (properly) by myself!

Judith

Reply to
Judith

On or around Thu, 22 Jul 2004 10:15:27 +0100, Mother enlightened us thusly:

I've done a cylinder head gasket in a layby once.

Reply to
Austin Shackles

My Mum replaced her Series III radiator in a field in Derbyshire. She hadn't realised it was all furred up until she tried to tow the caravan on holiday on the hottest day of the year.

Good job she was near Paddocks.

Judith

Reply to
Judith

I've done this before now at my local National Tyres place. They did all

4 wheels in a couple of minutes - I had snapped 2 half inch extensions and split a socket before giving up.

They didn't charge me for the job either :-)

cheers

Dave W.

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Reply to
Dave White

Nope .. but I will next time.

Heheheh, yeah, tired springs don't just affect old Landies .. ;)

At a certain level, something like above 75 lb-ft, a nut the size of a LR wheel nut shouldn't come undone, in normal tightening circumstances, anyway. [1] The frictional forces are enough to overcome any 'un-doing' forces from use. The reason they specify above 100lb-ft is to make sure that all seating faces are as flat and 'together' as they can be, but also so that an owner may also change the wheel material (Steels for Alloy and vice-versa for example) and still use the same torque number to tighten them ... and to cover their arses if a problem _does_ arise. The safety factor is a _big_ thing in these days of rampant litigation.

(I know this 'cos in my previous work (I'm now a school caretaker) I was a Torque Control Engineer working for Georges Renault and helped design, build and program the production line tooling that assembles the newer models brake/hub/driveshaft/axle/suspension assemblies .. so did a shit-load of testing on wheel and hub torque combinations for LR)

Reply to
Paul - xxx

I think the quality of the thread - on the stud and nut can make a big difference. Overtightening can damage (sometimes strip) the thread. Tim Hobbs can also make a few observations about nuts coming loose!

I always used to put a little dab of Tipex where the nut met the rim. This was I could easily tell if the nut had moved. Don't bother with mine on Grumble now as constant checking demonstrated that they tend to stay exactly where I'd tightened them!

I also got a Makita 24V cordless impact drive a few years ago - without which my Quarterly 'taking the sodding wheels off to brush the brake drums out" exercise would be a right PITA.

Reply to
Mother

I tend to use the same place for having tyres done, and the ONLY time they use the correct torque setting is when it's on a commercial vehicle, as VI/VOSA could come down on them heavier than for a private vehicle :(

Reply to
Elwyn York

Mother"

Reply to
Paul - xxx

Did the H1 *have* a swingarm? I thought they used a couple of bamboo sticks ;-)

What a bike - totally single-minded. Never owned one, but always hankered. Nearest I got was a Power Valve 350, which went nearly as fast but also went round corners, up to a point. At the time I lived near Brigg in Lincs, where all the roads follow the field boundaries, so you have a series of

200m straights linked by 90 degree muddy corners. Sold it before it killed me - the V50 Guzzi was a much more usable tool on those roads. Ah, memories...
Reply to
Richard Brookman

LOL Terry

Reply to
terry

Button bashing in practice for another round of Daley Thompson's Decathlon, Judith left Shakespeare to the monkeys by typing...

Aren't garages legally required to set the correct torque for wheelnuts? Some companies do rated bars for air guns (Snap-On for one) for correct torque. When I worked in a garage we used a torque wrench (well, I did). The constant battering and overtightening can do strange things to alloy wheels (work-hardening, stress fractures etc) which can eventually lead to a saucer-size wheel centre and the rest of the wheel gaily sailing off into the blue yonder (and they usually shear when loaded up - cornering - and it's usually on the outside of whatever corner you're attempting - autoengage brown-trouser mode!....)

My favourite air gun story (Not guilty - I was watching!)was a mid-70's

911turbo with a puncture came in on a Sat. Afternoon. Wheel off, fix puncture, gun first nut on. Nut contacts wheel and keeps spinning. Same with nuts 2 & 3. Thinking swiftly before more damage was done, said 'fitter' ('big-hammer-equipped-butcher' is perhaps more accurate) ran over and asked why this might be. I suggested that alloy wheelnuts might be torqued to a slightly lesser amount than his usual delicate 'max' setting and that he may have stripped the threads. I also pointed out that the FPDSH vehicle wouldn't be moving for a while and that these wheelnuts aren't considered important enough to be 'stock items' by some Porsche dealers, but that they could probably be ordered first thing on Monday to arrive sometime within the next week or so and that the owner was well within his rights to bill the garage for genuine replacement wheelnuts (ouch), tow to (and replacement by) Porsche dealer (OUCH) and the hire of an equivalent (same) vehicle for the duration (OUCH!!!).

Oh, and don't use copaslip on wheelnuts - it allows artificially high torque to be achieved leading to overtightening of wheel nuts - Ford's Motorsport dept (don't know the official name - RS/AVO whatever they called it) head during the building of one of the Lotus Cortina's explained this in a Craptical Plastics magazine about 15 years ago. Thick oils can lead to hydraulic splitting (on capped nuts), but WD40 (Waste of space for anything IMO - try PlusGas in the same contexts as WD to see the difference) or similar (3-in-1 etc) is ok.

Reply to
weallhatebillgates

I don't know. I wish I had thought to ask the fitters at the time.

I'm going to check the nuts sometime this week. It'll do no harm to take the Disco down to a tyre garage and ask them to check. (Somebody on this ng has already said that National checked his free of charge).

Judith

Reply to
Judith

On or around Sun, 25 Jul 2004 13:08:47 +0100, weallhatebillgates enlightened us thusly:

WD40 is quite good at dispersing water and leaving a film of oily stuff on components to slow down rusting, which AIUI is what it was designed for.

not much good as a penetrating oil or rust-remover or etc etc.

Reply to
Austin Shackles

except for the fact the paperwork will say re-torque the nuts after

50km - giving them a get out if they come loose !
Reply to
Denis F

On or around Tue, 27 Jul 2004 08:23:45 +0100, Denis F enlightened us thusly:

had occasion to remove the wheels from the big trailer yesterday, bloody military gorilla must've tightened 'em. They're only normal car-sized studs, too.

My disco did a fair job of towing 'tother disco back from Bala, too, albeit not very fast - but I was towing a bit over 3 tons, altogether, and the road's a bit hilly in places.

Reply to
Austin Shackles

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