there's a bit missing here....

I'm sure you can get the cams assemblies. I replaced all of them on mine a couple of years ago as they were seized up. I think I got them from Paddocks.

Regards Liam

Twas Wed, 08 Sep 2004 17:55:44 GMT when "Liam" put finger to keyboard producing:

I've sent an email to paddocks, see what they say.

any tips on getting this damn brake drum off?

Regards. Mark.(AKA, Mr.Nice.)

Yes - they're available at all decent LR parts outlets.

Application of heat with a gas welding set normally helps to break them free. In abscence of said blue tongued lizard copious quantities of WD40 over a few days can help.

You did undo the retaining screw didn't you :-)

On or around Thu, 09 Sep 2004 06:55:13 +1200, EMB enlightened us thusly:

you'll also need to get the shoes backed off, in case there's a lip around the edge of the drum.

pounding on 'em with a big (approx 3lb) hammer usually works in the end. don't try and hit the rim in an "off-wards" direction though, around the edge, as yer apt to break it. Mostly I hit on ther flat part of the drum (outside where the shoes act on it) and rotate it the while, so you're applying the hammer radially towards the hub centre. If it really won't shift, buy a new drum and hit it with a *really* big hammer so as to brake the old one. New drums are pretty cheap ISTR, and the chances are that old ones are quite worn anyway - before I changed 'em, the ones on my old SII were that worn that you could only use about half the lining thickness before running out of travel on the adjuster.

Twas Wed, 08 Sep 2004 22:16:06 +0100 when Austin Shackles put finger to keyboard producing:

I did notice on the side I managed to get off that there was alot of meat on the shoes yet the cams were very near their limits of travel before the shoes touched the drum, could the drums be that worn on a

Regards. Mark.(AKA, Mr.Nice.)

Yes...

Twas Thu, 09 Sep 2004 13:51:17 GMT when "Lee_D" put finger to keyboard producing:

I've ordered a set of cam things, when they arrive I'll try and talk the drum off with much tapping, skin, fiddling with screws, swearing, etc rather than paying-out for new drums at the moment.

I'm not keen on spraying wd40 around the place as it'll mess with the brake shoes won't it? and where to I spray it anyway? what is actually stuck on the drum? is it the inner face of the drum held fast against the hub-bit-thing-wot-the-wheel-bolts-to?

Regards. Mark.(AKA, Mr.Nice.)

Think of the drum as analogous to a coffee mug. The shoes does not (and cannot) come right to the rim. As the drum wears a ridge will develop, and the shoe, when the adjuster is properly set, can hook behind this ridge.

There can be a little corrosion helping the rum stick to the hub.

Some drum brakes have an extra hole in the drum, threaded to take a bolt that will push the drum away from the hub.

Be careful of any brake dust. Wear a dust-mask.

Twas Thu, 09 Sep 2004 17:49:59 +0100 (BST) when snipped-for-privacy@zhochaka.demon.co.uk ("David G. Bell") put finger to keyboard producing:

My drums have this extra threaded hole, I tried screwing the little screw that holds the drum on into this threaded hole but the threads are either very worn or bigger, I'll try a selection of bolts in the threaded hole next time.

Regards. Mark.(AKA, Mr.Nice.)

Might well be that your drums are worn and maybe ovalised (if there's such a word). If you can't get the bugger off then refit a couple of nuts to protect the threads and attempt to turn the drum with a bar to a 'free' position then the drum should come off easier. They're a pain to centralise. I found that pumping the brakes to centre the shoes works if you do it and leave it for a bit. I went to the pub and things seemed alot better then!

Dave

On or around Thu, 09 Sep 2004 17:49:59 +0100 (BST), snipped-for-privacy@zhochaka.demon.co.uk ("David G. Bell") enlightened us thusly:

they do indeed stick in the middle, sometimes very hard - it depends on when (whether) it's been taken off. I had one on an SIII I was working on that need a hell of a lot of pounding to loosen it. If you find a bolt to fit the threaded hole (and from memory, no it's not the same as the retaining screw) then you can wind that in tight first before hammering. I fit doesn't shift, leave the bolt wound in, and then hammer. Don;t however shear the bolt off in the hole.

I think it's a 3/8th" whitworth thread or something equally odd. I always keep one in each vehicle, and one in the garage on the "special LR tools" shelf.

Regards

William MacLeod

Twas Thu, 09 Sep 2004 21:39:30 GMT when William MacLeod put finger to keyboard producing:

well I don't have one of those but I'll try a metric thing as I have a few of those, M6 or M8 maybe.

Regards. Mark.(AKA, Mr.Nice.)

Cheaper in the long run getting the right thing. With the right one you can get a lot of pressure put in the right place, with the wrong one you strip the thread.....

Regards

William MacLeod

Twas Fri, 10 Sep 2004 13:02:32 GMT when William MacLeod put finger to keyboard producing:

the voice of reason scuppers my plans again... where's that ruddy big 'ammer.....

Regards. Mark.(AKA, Mr.Nice.)

On or around Fri, 10 Sep 2004 17:36:49 +0100, Mr.Nice. enlightened us thusly:

I think he's right about the 3/8 thread, although it might not be whit, could be UNC. ISTR trying an M10 in it, and it not fitting, then resorting to the big hammer anyway. What vintage is the vehicle again? ISTR only SI and early SII have a significant amount of whitworth/BSF on 'em, although there are always exceptions.

In that case grind the remians of the adjuster off.. hammer throught the remains though the backplate with old screw..6 inch nail etc etc.. You've got to do it anyway.

Now should be no pressure from adjusters broken or otherwise. Shoes ** should ** ease off and allow drum removal.

Lee D

Twas Fri, 10 Sep 2004 18:02:17 +0100 when Austin Shackles put finger to keyboard producing:

Regards. Mark.(AKA, Mr.Nice.)

My 110 is UNC, FWIW.

-- Badger. B.H.Engineering, Rover V8 engine specialists.

now live but still under construction,