www.landroveraddict.com/

I have never used the Land Rover addict forum but I tried to register just now and was able to do so without any problem.

John

I couldn't get the text icons to show up properly, the ones you type in and this was with three different browsers, also when I eventually managed to get it to accept the typed in letters the register button wouldn't work eventually it came back with user already used, I've used paintboffin so it is unlikely there is another user by that name.

Plus the other thing that puts me off is the Login with Username, Password and then a session length.

What browser are you using? as I think it might be a javascript thing.

Stephen.

I am registered and read it sometimes so I could post a message pointing to your site and indicating your wish to help, if you would like me to?? Which thread is it please? Graham

Cheers Graham, Someone has already posted a link to my site on the forum which is what brought the thread to my attention but I cannot answer specific questions unless I can access the forum.

The particular "paint" thread can be found here;

Regards,

Stephen.

Update!

I thank you for your message on the difflock forum Graham and although I have the answer to Frank's question, alas it seems to be not required as I've not had any feedback via the forum other than from yourself. Not to worry though, its their loss!

Thanks for trying ;)

Regards,

Stephen.

1) Do you have a view on these wonder preparations such as POR 15 available from Frosts. Context is really tidying up the underside of my Discovery as and when I get around to it. 2) Touching up the odd bit of bubbled ally is required and I'm not quite sure what I'm going to find when I work up the courage and inclination to get stuck it. I guess I'm going to end up with some sort of epoxy repair blending in to the original panels. Reading around it looks like some sort of etch primer is needed, is it as simple as that please? Cheers Graham

[snip]

Cheers Graham, I've not actually used POR 15 myself, but it appears to have had very good reports as a rust preventative in the car forums etc, but this could be because of it's prepolymer isocyanate base.

I would say it would be ideal on chassis work and steel components as that's what it was specifically designed to be used on, but I wouldn't recommend using it on bare aluminium. Bare aluminium should be treated with an acid etch primer usually containing a phosphoric acid, this will react better on the rust bubbles and any pitting in the aluminium can be filled with a polyester body filler.

IIRC quality body fillers use a form of talcum powder as the main bulk whereas cheap fillers use chalk, the fillers containing talcum powder are always easier to rub down that chalk fillers and are more pliable.

After the initial rubbing and filling sequence you can pretty much use any primer over the top but I would recommend brushing on a two-pack primer to build up the repaired pitted/bubbling area.

I partially coach painted a 1921 Rolls Royce a couple of years ago but I cheated on the front wings when I used a two-pack primer which I painted by brush over a previously filled repair area, by applying the primer very very thick, feathering out the edges and waiting for it to cure for a few days before flatting it down, the advantage of using a twin-pack primer as opposed to using a single pack is that you can blather it on without it wrinkling like a single-pack paint would do that dries by air not chemical reaction giving maximum thickness and therefore hopefully maximum protection.

Regards,

Stephen.

On or around Wed, 23 May 2007 18:54:10 +0100, Graham Bowers enlightened us thusly:

aha. I was thinking about you yesterday. Found an unused 300 TDi cambelt in my spares drawer which was supposed to go with the disco you had from us. D'you want it?