Front rotors

To add one more thing....show me a full "byrd" Colonel that has actually worked on vehicles. That is what enlisted folks do; they keep the Army running.

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I'm a retired full "byrd" Navy Captain, and I agree.....I'd sooner take the word of an E-5 who actually works on vehicles.

That recommendation to use water in brake lines is absolutely bogus. Brakes work by friction and generate a tremendous amount of heat. That heat is transmitted to all brake components including the fluid. If the fluid is heated to the boiling point (in the case of water, 212 degrees Farenheit) it will generate bubbles of steam. This dramatically reduces the braking efficiency and can lead to brake failure. The boiling point of brake fluid is substantially higher than water.

Brake fluid is hygroscopic, meaning it absorbs moisure from the air over time. If you've ever flushed a brake system (as I have many times) you'll notice the fluid looks more like maple syrup than clean brake fluid. Contaminated fluid leads to rusting of the cylinder walls and pistons in the calipers and can result in seizing of the calipers. That is why most manufacturers including Mercedes and BMW call for periodic replacement of the fluid. Two years intervals is the frequent recommendation.

| >>>I guess you might have thought that i knew this but no i just called a | >>>friend of | >>>mine who retire from the army as a full Byrd Colonel in the maintaining | >>>the | >>>motor equipment from Tanks to Jeeps. He give me the scoop here. | >>>

| >>>TURTLE | >>>

| >>

| >>

| >>ye GAD. Your full "byrd" Colonel is an idiot. Having spent MANY | >>years in the military myself, I have absolutely *never* heard of ANY | >>recommendation to put water in a braking system as a replacement for | >>brake fluid. | >

| >

| > To add one more thing....show me a full "byrd" Colonel that has | > actually worked on vehicles. That is what enlisted folks do; they | > keep the Army running. | > - | > -- | > snipped-for-privacy@akaMail.com | > Anti-Spam filter in place-- | > | |

"Capt Retardo and the Skidmarks" wrote in message news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com...

This is Turtle.

He did not say use it as a everyday thing but if you out in no where and the adverary is fixing to kill your ass . You can piss in it to get it going and get home. This is only to get your ass home and not come home in a box. It is tought that if you don't have fluid for the brakes and need to get home you can use potiable water to replace the fluid and when the fire in not on your ass any more. Have the motor pool take it out. the reason they say water for it can be remove pretty eazy by draining them.

Now i'm not talking about your out riding around looking at the country and have no brake fluid. Call the Motor pool and send you a gal. of brake fluid out there.

Now here is another one for you to jump up and down about. If you don't have any steering fluid you can use the diesel oil like Shell Rotella motor oil in it. Now like I said before just in a heat of the minute to get home.

If your driving to Sunday School -- No Water. If your driving to a LZ to get your ass out of a hot zone -- Use anything but water works ok.

TURTLE

Turtle, I can't figure out how to get the Front Rotors off... there is a 5 Nut Device that must have something to do with the 4WD/AWD that After removing the Nuts still won't budge, and then there's a 2nd piece that is Bolted from the Back Side to the Rotor itself. How do I get the thing off?!?!

Turtle, I can't figure out how to get the Front Rotors off... there is a 5 Nut Device that must have something to do with the 4WD/AWD that After removing the Nuts still won't budge, and then there's a 2nd piece that is Bolted from the Back Side to the Rotor itself. How do I get the thing off?!?!

remove the hub/rotor assembly first, then separate the rotor from the hub.

my buddy tried to do that but the 2 pieces were "pressed" together so tight, we couldn't get anything between the 2 pieces, and hitting it with a hammer and screw driver, wouldn't get ANY separation either. It looks like there are 2 bumps in between the bolts that we took the nuts off of that may be 2 bolts holding it on from the other side?!?! How is this piece put together? Someone said it might be "machine Pressed" on?!?!

it will come apart with much difficulty, if you are just replacing rotors, you can beat the hell out of the rotor, and the new rotor will slide on nicely. the 6 bolts hold the rotor to the hub anyway.

6 little nuts hold tapered keepers on the hub cover, loosen the nuts most of the way, whack near the keepers at right angles to them, and they'll pop right out. then remove the nuts, keepers, cover, and you can remove the hub/rotor from the axle.

thenremove 6 bolts that hold the rotor to the hub. like i said, it won't come willingly. i've had success using a couple other bolts to knock the rotor off. screw in a few bolts that you won't be reusing and hammer on those until you get some gap that you can take advantage of with a prybar. using a torch to heat things up (not melt them) may also help.