Brake lining glue

Jan 25, 2007 109 Replies

I think I'm starting to get the picture now. It sounds like the piston is a bit like a telescope which elongates as it unscrews. The bit it screws into (like a sleeve, although closed at the end where the handbrake cam is) is free to move in the bore, which is why you have to push and turn to retract the piston (to stop the sleeve rotating with it).

This means that the handbrake end of the telescope does not get much further from the cam as the pads wear, even though the other end is moving closer to the disk.

Thanks for the explanation.

I recently put in a query on this NG on this topic. You may be interested to read to following from Araldite

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Rob Graham

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You just need to save up for the degreasing plant, the shot blaster and the curing oven now ;-)

Chris

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I reckon I can manage all of those, it's the 1MPA even pressure that's an issue.

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How about put the brake shoe, with the lining and glue in position, into some kind of steel tube or box along with a bicyle inner tube crammed in above the shoe. Pump up the tube a bit, check the alignment of the parts as you start to get some pressure in, then pump it all the way up to

145psi and leave for several hours.

Not sure whether the tube would survive the 150 deg C you also need.

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I'd go for clamping with some kind of suitably shaped former. (wood would survive 150 deg C wouldn't it?)

cheers, clive

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Would the actual brake drum not fit the description of suitably shaped then?

I recently put in a query on this NG on this topic. You may be interested to read to following from Araldite

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Rob Graham

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I thought the information would be somewhere, however, I doubt the average DIY person would be able to follow the instructions, regarding pressure bonding and curing.

Nice to see positive comments! People trying to find ways of making something work.

Rob

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