My girlfriend's 1991 Fiesta with starship enterprise mileage has just failed its mot on 500 quids worth of welding. Since it's only worth the same as a pack of wrigley's double-mint we have decided to just scrap it and put the money to better use to sort out a 2nd hand Ford Ka this weekend.
Will be looking to spend around 3K max (less if possible) so hopefully that should get us a T plate or better. Anything to look out for when buying? Known problems etc?
Have you scrapped the Fester already? If not - i might be interested :)
As for your 3k budget - a friend of mine picked up a 'P' reg Ka2 LHD for just under £2000 - so you're probably looking at the right amount - but look out for the door panels - you slam the door - they pop off :/
Known idle problems, electrical gaffs, lack of power etc - so make sure any one you want to buy has a good history.
Thanks for the info! The old fiesta has 2 weeks of MOT left to run, which gives us that long to either buy a new car or cough up the cash and have the welding done. We're thinking of taking it banger racing for a laugh! Hmm, how fast can it do in 1st gear before exploding - LOL :)
Should definately get you a T-plate. Main IMO thing is rust, they tend to go around the back of the doors when stones hit them, mine's got a couple of small spots on the boot lid too. Later Kas have little clear plastic stickers over this area, if you get one with unchipped paint here, or you get it sorted, get some of these from the dealer and stick them on to protect the paint.
Suspension bushes start packing up and make for noisy suspension, apparently the best way to replace them is new suspension arms as the bushes are difficult to take out and put new ones in. Ring your Ford dealer to find out what the bits will cost you. Apparently they can also need new dampers quite early on.
The engine is the one they've been putting in Fiestas and things for years, needs the tappets doing every 10k.
If you can, try and get one with vented disks rather than solid ones (the calipers are different, so you can't just fit vented disks), otherwise you'll find driving quickly on twisty roads or stopping from top speed can cause brake fade, and getting through pads like they're made out of cheese.
The pearlescent paint is nigh on impossible to touch up well yourself. That's about it.
The biggest thing is to check for rust on the sills. Some seem to be fine but others seem to start rusting after 2-3 years. The engine is fairly bullet proof provided it has had regular oil changes. Lower arm bushes go at low mileage's but they are fairly cheap to replace. Tailgate earthing is poor but again its an easy fix.
The first Ka 1's didn't have PAS so best to go for a Ka 2. The Ka 3 gets you aircon, CD player, alloys and leather steering wheel.
Around 850kilos IIRC. I agree that it doesn't *need* PAS, but PAS gives you a quicker rack, and the various car guides and Honest John types say to avoid Non-PAS models, which of course makes them harder to sell on if you get one.
I'd happily have the extra feel from boggo steering if it had a quick rack, parking doesn't really bother me, and for what it's worth, the PAS in the Ka isn't really that heavily assisted compared to something like a Punto (absolutely horrible steering in those IMO, no idea of when things are going to let go). I'd happily drive around in a Caterham though. Very happily. :P
To add what's been said: later Kas (2001 onwards) have a different earthing system in the boot, much more reliable.
Vented disc brakes is a useful thing to get, ABS too.
PAS makes them feel very handy, 2.25 turns lock to lock, but they can chew steering racks - look for leaking. Some groaning or murmuring is quite normal.
Early models tend to have better bodywork but the donks are not to hardy. Very early models had camshaft problems.
Common faults include a hunting sticky idle, which can either be a new wiring loom (seventy notes) or cleaning the idle control valve.
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