Cooling Airlocks and Water Loss

Do you have any references or evidence for that - especially the welding point?

I can't find any and neither have I heard of it before.

Obviously you haven't changed oil very much.

That's a good idea, then you will have a result if the leak is plugged my this method. And eliminate that one from the list.

Actually the gas tester is not that conclusive.

Head gasket - blowing or sucking ??

Head may even be cracked.

Barrs leaks was actually not bad.

There is a metallic type now available. Biggest problem is the radiator clogs on the flake stuff.

I think Nige is saying pigshit to the suggestion of not topping up a hot engine with cold oil but hasn't snipped that well.

It would make changing oil tricky, given that it is normally done with a hot engine.

If you're saying it's normal to pre-heat fresh engine oil before topping up in a hot engine then I'll join in the pigshit chorus!

I've got it booked in at a local independent for a gas and leak test - then it's stop leak and then ultimately off with it's head! Although, I'm hoping to avoid that as it's a big lump to work on.

Ask at your local engine repairers or any textbook on the subject, it's inherently good at getting into cracks so you have to open the whole crack to get it out before you weld it (well assuming you want it to last)

or just run it unpressurised

something to avoid is accidentally sitting on one of the head studs: a friend ended up in casualty doing exactly that on one of these engines in a

420 !

No its a ridiculous statement that you have to heat new oil.

Warm engine to drain the oil as it flows faster. But by the time the oil has drained, the engine is cooled down quite a bit anyway.

A pressure test may be sufficient to see the visible leaks or if it does not hold pressure.

The gas test only tells you if the bubbles are engine exhaust gases.

I think the jag has a neck on the radiator so you can;t see if there are bubbles in the water.

Hopefully both will cover the available problems!

It has and it's a right royal PITA - difficult to judge how much coolant is in and when topped right up it will always chuck some out when warmed up.

Absolutely.

We were somewhere around Barstow, on the edge of the desert, when the drugs began to take hold. I remember "sweller" saying something like:

Novastop or Innostop is far superior to the traditional shit.

Kalimex K-Seal is also good, it's compatible with antifreeze, doesn't require flushing before or re-flushing after and can be left in the system for coolant life.

off about 2 x 1/2L of coolant Add K-seal to one 1/2L and pour inrad header tank [1]. Top up from other 1/2L. Drive car to get enginewarm.

[1] newer sealed systems with expansion tanks that don't get coolant flow it's better put in the main system.

My drive would say otherwise.

Well, yeah....

Why would anyone get an engine up to full temp & then change the oil?

You always warm it to get it flowing, then drop it, hopefully remember to put the sump plug in & refill.

The operative word here is "Warm"