Cooling Airlocks and Water Loss

Did the XK drink buckets of oil when touring and need 1/2 gallon top ups at every fuel stop?

I think you better put up a link to the scan of that handbook.

If there isn't a scan on line you better scan it and stick on shutterfly or some other photo share and then link that.

Or at least quote it verbatim.

Oil has a "normal" running temp of about 100°C. The filler on a car engine is almost always in the rocker cover. It drains fresh oil over the warm top deck of the head water jacket, down drain tubes in the block to the sump. In the sump it meets 3 - 5L of hot oil. 1/2L of

20°C oil added to 3L of oil at 100°C will reduce the sump temp to 88°C. Added to 5L the temp is 93°C. It's hardly going to cause a damaging huge rise in oil pressure or poor oil pickup to pump. Not even if you go racing off from the pits redlining though the gears.

Dumping 3L in to a 1/2 full 6L sump or tank in a 24hr race pit stop could do something. Oil temp would drop to 60°C and that is clearly nowhere near up to race temp. Viscosity would rise and hence pressure but flow would reduce.

If you are going to engage in that sort of stuff you have to train the driver to read oil temp and pressure gauges and use the engine accordingly.

None of the above applies to Honda Civics, they can start the engine stone cold and go flying off at 6K rpm with impunity.

Reply to
Peter Hill
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Its not just to get a better flow , the engine when running mixes all the crap into the oils when you drain you flush out the shit , if you do it cold the crap settles in the bottom of the sump and isnt cleaned out

Reply to
steve robinson

No. The crap that settles in the sump tends to form a solid lump in the places that don't get agitated much, and does no harm. Crap that gets stirred up as you suggest is caught by the filter. Changing engine oil when warm is basically a hangover from the days when it was so thick it would be like treacle when cold. There isn't really a reason for it with modern oils.

Steve

Reply to
shazzbat

However, we're talking about a 1940's engine that uses 1960's oil (20/50)

- modern oil is pissed out at an even faster rate than the "Classic" stuff.

Reply to
sweller

Were talking Jaguars here and they like 20-50. three out of four cars in my shed use 20/50.

Reply to
Rob

Some time ago I reconditioned my MG engine, at the time was using Castrol XL 20/50 then they released this new oil Castrol GTX 20/50 (or 40??)

What did happen the pressure difference did not protect the engine and I pulled the engine to find the big end bearing journals blue and had to replace the bearings and run the older oil XL again.

I still run XL 20/50 in all the BMC products in the shed.

Reply to
Rob

Multigrade oils are sufficiently modern as not to turn to treacle when it's a bit chilly.

AFAIC the only reason for draining oil when warm is so that it's neither too hot nor too cold as it trickles down your sleeve.

Steve

Reply to
shazzbat

I've yet to find any oil that flows as easily cold as hot. And by quite a margin. So always drain oil from a hot engine.

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

In message , "Dave Plowman (News)" writes

Cold oil which is as free-flowing as hot oil is defying the laws of Fizzicks, regardless of what oil companies claim for multigrade.

Anyway, I used to find it a more pleasant sensation to have warm oil flowing up my arm as I removed the sump plug... ;-)

Reply to
Gordon H

which is the reason to buy magnetic sockets, then you can avoid the oil, hot or cold.

Reply to
Mrcheerful

It happens *once* to most part-time mechanics, I suspect...

Reply to
Gordon H

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