CV Boot Change

A mechanic recently changed the CV boot on a friend's Citroen XM using a split boot which was cut to size and superglued when in position. It seemed to save a lot of work. Are these things reliable - i.e. do they stay stuck? Would anyone advise Adam to look for and use such a boot for his Proton?

Also sprach "Ex Alfa Adam" :-

Seems OK, provided the shaft splits easily.

Total s**te. *Avoid* like the plague. These last about 5mins. Do it properly with a 'real' boot. It is not too difficult. JB

You're wrong, JB...they don't last anything *like* five minutes!

Si

That sounds good. Only thing is, the cv joint will have to be removed from shaft to change the boot.

Now do you want to know what usually happens?

well, this is the worst case scenario.

1- straight forward, at least you think it is, until you find the wheel hasn't been off years, and is seized solid on the hub. 2 - find split pin is siezed solid, snaps off, and shaft has to be drilled to get old split pin out, which involves snapping numerous drill bits. Nut is siezed on and won't budge even with the inappropriate use off a bit 6 foot scafolding. 3 - Bolt is seized on, bolt then rounds. requiring the use off hacksaw to remove. Then having accomplaished that, discover that no ball joint splitter, regardless off shape/size will split the ball joint. 4- Realise at this point, the CV shaft is seized in the hub, and regardless off how much hammer effort is tried, it just won't budge. Try suitable puller, which works, after destroying the wheel bearing. 5 - Now you would think this would be an easy objective to achieve, until you realise the designer specified one of the worlds strongest spring clips to retain drive shaft into gearbox. After much levering (and removal of gearbox case webbing), get drive shaft out, only to discover that the inner CV joint got pulled too far apart, and now won't go back in. Remove inner CV boot to discover a collection off grease, needle bearings and rollers. 5.1 - You need to seperate the outer CV joint, which you discover has somehow managed to seize on, and despite the use of every possible pair of circlip pliers, just won't split. 6 - Just reverse the above procedure.

Do you actually need to get the shaft out of the gearbox? I split the CV from the shaft on Vauxhalls with a screwdriver and hide faced hammer.

Oh, and the year I had an unexpected MOT boot failure, and temp fitted a split boot, it actually stayed on for 2 years - got lucky and lazy I guess, but cleanleness is essential on joining these.

6.1 Break circlip that retains cv joint on shaft. Go 25 miles to main dealers, as local spares place have none that are correct size. 6.2 Try ingenious ways to prevent the ball joint from spinning as you vainly try and get the nut to go up that last 7mm of thread. 6.3 Get covered in foul smelling gear oil when refilling 'box.

6.4 Get abuse from SO for leaving foul smelling oily patch on drive.

6.5 Read the wrong torque setting in the HBoL, and strip the thread when tightening the hub nut. Eventually tighten hand tight and hammer a large self tapping screw into the split pin hole as extra security.

6.6 Feel satisfied with a 40 minute job completed in less than a day.

6.7 Feel dismayed that the axle stand has sank 2" into your nice new tarmac drive.

6.8 Drive slowly to local auction and hope it sells..........

Cor! Story of my life. Usually out in the open, and then it starts snowing. DaveK.

Rather than let yourself in for all of that, perhaps the answer might be to use a split gaiter, fitting it the day before the car's booked in for an MoT. (See replies to my 'split gaiter' question above). Then take the car to the auction as soon as you find the gaiter's opened up.

Yeah, it can be worth finding out where you can get a replacement driveshaft before you start (Just incase). Odds are it'll just be a greasy tedious job & you'll need a set of No. 3 circlip pliers (which your local tool store won't have)

If you can do those 2 the other way round, it's a lot easier stopping the wheel from turning when it's on the ground.

John

Also sprach "DB." :-

No - they're crap.

seconded

That was me doing a cylinder head gasket.......

Adam H

Chaps - I know this may be difficult to understand, but I actually want to KEEP the Proton. (Wife's car....)

Adam H

Well I did just that - splitting the lower balljoint was a s*d but the whole job took 3 hours and now me, the car and my entire toolkit is covered in grease....

Back to the MOT it went this afternoon....

Check this out Duraboot

Bill

Also sprach "Bill" :-

Love the Duragun - like a giant air operated speculum!

I looked at the 1.6 Montego/Maestro - and it's "Not available". Which I thought was odd 'cos it's a VW gearbox and the inner joint is a VW item.

But it turns out they ain't done /any/ of the VW range anyway.