But not better than crimping and soldering. If a good joint is made by crimping, then soldered, it seals the contact areas of the crimped wires from water, and possible corrosion. Maybe a bit OTT in most cases, but for a car you intend to keep is worth the extra protection it gives IMO. When I rewired my wifes '57 MM convertible, I soldered, or crimped and soldered every connector on the car. Mike.
Crimping onto bare ends is better than crimping onto tinned ends.
You get rubber and thermal shrink sleeving and shrouds to do that in conjunction with uninsulated crimps.
I'm not convinced post-soldering is going to help at all; shrink wrap shrouds and a little copper grease is the way IMO.
As long as there are no ScotchLoks! :)
A
The thing with shrink wrap, is that it doesn't usually protect the front end of the joint from water ingress. Personally I would never use copper grease on electrical connections. No real reason, apart from the fact that it is actually a high temperature anti-sieze compound, rather than a grease promoted for it's conductivity or corrosion protection. On the MM I used No-Crode. AFAIR a product aimed more at protecting battery terminals from corrosion, rather than connections. Whether it's any better than Vaseline or petroleum jelly, I've no idea. I like to think so, but for all I know it might just be snake oil, but no corroded connections have re-corroded after using the stuff, and it's convenient to use. All the bullet connectors on the MM were filled with the stuff before connecting. I can't see them ever giving problems.
No. They have their place though. I've used them to connect trailer socket wiring etc, but for most other jobs IMO they're a bodge. No substitute for proper wiring. Mike.
That's what adhesive lined heatshrink is for.
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