Exhaust Repair Material

Hi all, I need to repair my exhaust pipe in two places, it sheered of cleanly after the support bracket failed leaving the exhaust unsupported and it just snapped off.

The outside diameter is 45mm and I am looking for some sleeving pipe to slide over the broken bits and either benelli clamp them or if I get the urge, I might try to MIG weld them into place.

I bought a 100 MIG AMP welder ages ago thinking I would get around to learning but never did.

Either way I am after some pipe with perhaps 47 mm inside diameter to sort this out.

I was offerred a 2 meter long flexi pipe from a loal dealer but it was over £25 and I only need about 12 to 15 inches.

Regards Alan in Arbroath

Reply to
alan dav
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Hi all, I need to repair my exhaust pipe in two places, it sheered of cleanly after the support bracket failed leaving the exhaust unsupported and it just snapped off.

The outside diameter is 45mm and I am looking for some sleeving pipe to slide over the broken bits and either benelli clamp them or if I get the urge, I might try to MIG weld them into place.

I bought a 100 MIG AMP welder ages ago thinking I would get around to learning but never did.

Either way I am after some pipe with perhaps 47 mm inside diameter to sort this out.

I was offerred a 2 meter long flexi pipe from a loal dealer but it was over £25 and I only need about 12 to 15 inches.

Regards Alan in Arbroath

Reply to
alan dav

All pipes are standard sizes such that the inner of one is the same as the outer of the next size down. Your local exhaust place ought to be able to find you a bit of pipe off an old exhaust which fits over the one you have. Or your local scrappy.

-- Dave Baker

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Reply to
Dave Baker

If you pop down ATS they'll sell you a bit of straight exhaust pipe.

Reply to
Duncanwood

If it snapped off at a box as they usually do, the original pipe is welded on both ends of the pipe. Welding at one end as is the only practical way it can be done will leave a very weekened exhaust and the possibility of pipe left inside the box rattling. I would replace the damaged exhaust section.

Reply to
a.n.other

I don't think clamping would give a satisfactory repair. Welding would be a better and longer lasting solution. As for a suitable pipe. I would suggest that if you can find a slightly larger piece of pipe, (breakers?) you could cut material out of it lengthwise, until it closes to the right diameter. Then weld the seam as well as the ends of the 'sleeve'. You could even slit a length of the same sized pipe, and open it enough to slip over the broken ends, and fill the gap with weld. If the ends of the original pipe are butted, you wont actually have to weld across any gaps, so it should be relatively easy. A little practice with your MIG on some scrap, Plus a little luck should see a repair that will be strong without leaking. Mike.

Reply to
Mike G

Thanks everyone for you helpful replies.

Regards Alan

Reply to
alan dav

My wife's Previa went like that. I welded it at the front of the box and it passed its MOT. The next year it needed a little more welding. However the same exhaust has passed the last two MOTs without further attention. At £150-£200 for the section, repair makes sense.

Reply to
Chris Bolus

Plenty of OEM exhausts have clamped joints?

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

They do. I just don't think it's the best way to repair the exhaust. In effect though, it's actually two joints, and in a place which wasn't designed to have a joint. I've no doubt clamping would work. I just think welding would be a better long term solution. Mike.

Reply to
Mike G

If the exhaust was only held up at the engine and the rear, you'd have a point but as they tend to have two or three rubber mounts which hold it in place fairly well, it's not really an issue.

Reply to
Conor

In your opinion. Which is all I'm giving. IME many exhaust systems rely on rotational rigidity to hold the system in the right place. The designed joints, and mountings take that into account. Adding a slip type joint, where one was not intended could place rotational stresses on it, where a clamped sleeve might slip. In general I'm in favour of a solid welded joint, when a pipe breaks on an otherwise undamaged section. If one has a MIG welder, as the OP has, It's got to be a better, and more permanent repair than sleeving and clamping. Mike.

Reply to
Mike G

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