Focus MK 1 will not start

2004 Ford Focus Mk1 1.6 L Petrol Similar problem to the recent thread about the Renault Megane Driving normally when the engine warning light came on, made a couple of re
-starts before driving home. Left overnight then engine would not start on main or spare key. All keys unlock and lock doors normally with fob or by turning lock. Engine warning light stays on and red LED described as Anti-theft indicator light flashes for about 60 seconds then flashes code 1-5 which I understan d indicates Wrong Transponder Key. I tried the Hidden Menu test by pressing the trip button but nothing signif icant shows in the first dozen codes. I put a jumper across the starter relay contacts and the starter motor turn ed over but (as expected) the engine did not start. I called a local auto electrical services guy who did a diagnostic check bu t he was unable to fix the fault (didn’t charge me) His best guess was that it was a fault with the immobiliser which was beyon d his expertise. What does the team think? John Weale
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Try reposting with paragraphs. Then folk might make the effort to read your post.
Tim
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On 13/09/2018 20:14, snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote:

I fixed a similar model focus recently. Running ok till he parked up, then would not start, span over well and a simple diagnostic check showed no faults. I established that it had sparks (engine speed shows on diagnostic when spun over on starter) A quick spray of carb cleaner showed that it would run. So I checked for the fuel pump running and found that the fuel pump fuse was blown, replacing it just blew another, so it was a seized fuel pump, new pump and away it went.
Problems like this can you often be sorted by simple and basic, old fashioned mechanic skills.
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On 14/09/2018 07:38, MrCheerful wrote:

This is quite an old car. For more modern stuff, can the system detect and alert to such fuse failures? As it turns out, presumably just going through the fuse box with a meter would have picked it up fairly quickly. Perhaps I should look up where the fuse box in my newer car actually is, and add a meter or test probe to the Leatherman Wave which is the only tool I carry in it. (I have a roll of electrical tape and some kitchen roll too).
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On 14/09/2018 10:54, newshound wrote:

I don't see how it could detect a blown fuse without a lot of extra bits. But why it cannot flag up low fuel pressure is a mystery, just as much as why they don't have a low vacuum sensor on cars that need it (I am thinking Vectra diesel here, I spent hours tracing a weird fault that was caused by low vacuum on a vectra)
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On 14/09/2018 11:21, MrCheerful wrote:

I thought some modern stuff would detect failed light bulbs, presumably via some sort of current sensor within the electronics. I agree, if the fuel pump is just on the switched live it's more difficult. But I have never actually delved into the wiring of a modern vehicle.
And as you say, low fuel pressure would be a useful indication to have.
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Hardly modern. First saw bulb failure indicators in the '70s. But would be much easier to do with can bus communication.
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Dave Plowman snipped-for-privacy@davenoise.co.uk London SW
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On 15/09/2018 17:06, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

Late 70's Datsun Bluebird 910 had tail/brake warning lights. Odd thing was when a trailer was plugged in they came on every time the brake was pressed. If the trailer had a fault the warning didn't light.
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I think some early ones used reed switches - but not exactly sure how they worked. As some could tell you a bulb had faied without switching that circuit on.
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I suspect it was just badly wired. Bulb failure detection systems have been around a very long time and problems with plugging in trailers were common if folk didn’t wire the system correctly. My old Volvo 240 from 30-35 years ago had a bulb failure system and was wired correctly to cope with trailer electrics.
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newshound wrote:

You can see if a fuse has blown by holding it up to the light. The filaments tend to be quite thick, so it's usually obvious. Or, if presbyopia has set it, try replacing it and see if anything changes :-) If you don't have spares, use another fuse of the same value (or greater) from something you can manage without for a while (like power to what used to be the cigarette lighter). If you are lucky enough to have the owner's manual, there should be a list of what each fuse is for.
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On Friday, 14 September 2018 07:38:16 UTC+1, MrCheerful wrote:

f re-starts before driving home.

ator light flashes for about 60 seconds then flashes code 1-5 which I under stand indicates Wrong Transponder Key.

gnificant shows in the first dozen codes.

turned over but (as expected) the engine did not start.

k but he was unable to fix the fault (didn’t charge me)

eyond his expertise.

Apologies for my long unbroken text – Mea Culpa
I probably did not make it clear that the engine will not turn over in the key start position. All other services are OK.
I checked all the fuses in both boxes, the inertia switch, PCM diode and st arter relay and all were OK. The fuses can be checked in situ by putting a DVM on continuity test position across the exposed ends of the fuse contac ts.
I was thinking about taking out the ECU and trying to source a second-hand replacement but it involves drilling out a security bolt which looks like a lot of hassle and still may not solve the problem.
I would be very grateful for any further suggestions.
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On 14/09/2018 14:08, snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote:

found this:
Insert the ignition key and turn from position II (Ignition) to position 0 (All off) and back four times within three seconds. Remove the ignition key. The locking control system is now in "learn mode" for the next 20 seconds and the red warning system LED (By the clock) stays on continuously to indicate this. During the 20 seconds press one of the transmitter buttons. The remotes signal and code number is learned by the locking module and is indicated by flashing the warning system LED. Wait until learn mode times out (20 seconds) or switch the ignition back to ON.
worth a try.
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On Friday, 14 September 2018 17:03:03 UTC+1, MrCheerful wrote:

of re-starts before driving home.

icator light flashes for about 60 seconds then flashes code 1-5 which I und erstand indicates Wrong Transponder Key.

significant shows in the first dozen codes.

r turned over but (as expected) the engine did not start.

eck but he was unable to fix the fault (didn’t charge me)

beyond his expertise.

n
the key start position. All other services are OK.

d starter relay and all were OK. The fuses can be checked in situ by putti ng a DVM on continuity test position across the exposed ends of the fuse co ntacts.

and replacement but it involves drilling out a security bolt which looks li ke a lot of hassle and still may not solve the problem.

I tried the procedure three times without success. I got a beep after the four key turns but the LED did not stay on continuously but continued flash ing at 1 second intervals.
After waiting 20 seconds for the learn mode to time out, I turned the key t o position II and the LED flashed quickly for 60 seconds, gave a code signa l ten times of one long flash followed by 5 short flashes and then turned o ff.
The key fob still operates the doors as before but does not turn the starte r motor - is there anything else I should try.
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On 14/09/2018 18:52, snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote:

in that case the key is not recognised.
a long shot, but have you got a load of other keys on the bunch? if so take off the others.
otherwise you might need to get in a mobile car key firm to sort it for you.
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On Friday, 14 September 2018 19:12:33 UTC+1, MrCheerful wrote:

le of re-starts before driving home.

.
ndicator light flashes for about 60 seconds then flashes code 1-5 which I u nderstand indicates Wrong Transponder Key.

g significant shows in the first dozen codes.

tor turned over but (as expected) the engine did not start.

check but he was unable to fix the fault (didn’t charge me)

as beyond his expertise.

p,

hen

e
a
n the key start position. All other services are OK.

and starter relay and all were OK. The fuses can be checked in situ by put ting a DVM on continuity test position across the exposed ends of the fuse contacts.

-hand replacement but it involves drilling out a security bolt which looks like a lot of hassle and still may not solve the problem.

on

s
ed

ck

the four key turns but the LED did not stay on continuously but continued f lashing at 1 second intervals.

ey to position II and the LED flashed quickly for 60 seconds, gave a code s ignal ten times of one long flash followed by 5 short flashes and then turn ed off.

arter motor - is there anything else I should try.

ou.
Thanks for that - I will contact a local mobile key firm
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On Friday, 14 September 2018 19:12:33 UTC+1, MrCheerful wrote:

le of re-starts before driving home.

.
ndicator light flashes for about 60 seconds then flashes code 1-5 which I u nderstand indicates Wrong Transponder Key.

g significant shows in the first dozen codes.

tor turned over but (as expected) the engine did not start.

check but he was unable to fix the fault (didn’t charge me)

as beyond his expertise.

p,

hen

e
a
n the key start position. All other services are OK.

and starter relay and all were OK. The fuses can be checked in situ by put ting a DVM on continuity test position across the exposed ends of the fuse contacts.

-hand replacement but it involves drilling out a security bolt which looks like a lot of hassle and still may not solve the problem.

on

s
ed

ck

the four key turns but the LED did not stay on continuously but continued f lashing at 1 second intervals.

ey to position II and the LED flashed quickly for 60 seconds, gave a code s ignal ten times of one long flash followed by 5 short flashes and then turn ed off.

arter motor - is there anything else I should try.

ou.
The key man had a look and can’t fix it. He says it is a duff ECU which sounds like it might be expensive.
As the car is not worth very much, any suggestions for a second-hand unit o r an ECU repair shop?
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On 19/09/2018 17:30, snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote:

a friend of mine had several repaired at reasonable cost, I will ask him tomorrow where he gets them from.
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On 19/09/2018 17:30, snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote:

The place my friend has used several times is BBA Reman, he says they are quick, and they work.
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On Wed, 19 Sep 2018 09:30:18 -0700 (PDT), snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote:
<snip> >The key man had a look and can’t fix it. He says it is a duff ECU which sounds like it might be expensive.

I had the ECU repaired on the Meriva a few years ago now by these people:
https://www.actronics.co.uk/
We had to remove the ECU, BCM, ignition key coil / immobiliser and give them that with the key and they had it fixed in a few days and we put it back on again pretty quickly.
They also repaired the controller that went with daughters Connect fuel injection pump but when tested it failed (potentially down to the pump). They offered us a full refund but as no one could prove where the fault was I just took 50% (as they had been very helpful in the interim).
With some of these things I don't think it's just the straight cost of the repair versus the value of the car but the value of the use of the car, the likelihood of it just being that (or not) and how likely it would be to get something else that wasn't just someone else's leftover problems?
Cheers, T i m
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