Is it possible for a rim to spin inside the tyre?

Andy Hewitt ( snipped-for-privacy@spamcop.net) gurgled happily, sounding much like they were saying :

If you think I'm getting involved in all those bloody "front/back/front/back" interminable threads again...

Shit. I'm getting dragged into it again, aren't I?

Thanks all for the advice. Hopefully, I haven't been sold a pup then and the new ones will be at least as good as the old ones...

Apologies for accidentally sparking off the front/back debate. I was actually thinking about swapping the back ones onto the front - but only to finish them off so I can have the same type all round again...

Cheers,

Colin.

If you listen to my mates rattling on about the GM takeover, apparently it is practically a s**te old cav...

Cheers,

Colin.

Well, all the major tyre makers and tyre shop leagues seem to agree that put the new ones on the back is the right way to go, so personally I would move the new ones to the rear.

read up on a manufacturer site about the thinking behind it, it does make sense. And is borne out in real world practice.

mrcheerful

Vectra isnit? 900 was a s**te old cav...

Many years ago, a friend proved that you can spin the rims inside the tyres. Although a joke by modern standards, in its day his souped up Cortina was a real flyer. In an attempt to quell rampant wheel spin, he fitted some 'Carlos Fandangio' extra wide wheels, similar to those on the cigar advert at the time. Problem solved, or so he thought. When he attempted a full power standing start the wheels spun in the rims and neatly ripped the valves out of his inner tubes resulting in two flats before the car had even moved and total destruction of his street cred. Suspect modern tyres/wheels are better made/matched and this sort of thing doesn't happen anymore. Very suprised that the garage didn't tell you to take it easy for the first 50 miles or so, otherwise the tyres may be badly damaged by the stresses and have significantly reduced grip levels for their remaining life. Maybe they hope to see you again soon!

I'm not, I have my opinion, and information from varied sources, I also understand the principles behind the advice given. If somebody wants to think otherwise, that's fine by me, I'll happily watch them spinning down a wet road.

No, some of us can't. In fact I think we kind of settled that in the majority of cases new tyres always go to the back unless size, uneven wear, PZeroSystem (directional front, assym rear) or rears have been very recently changed on a front driver.

I think we came to the understanding that understeer is less dangerous than oversteer for Mr Average.

It's not complicated.

The message from Adrian contains these words:

But adequate for most uses.

Also important as rear tyres can last years on front drive cars and could rot before they wear out...

Naaah - you burn the first 1/2 mm off on the way out of kwik-fit don't you?

The message from "Tim S Kemp" contains these words:

It's generally considered good form to let the fitters do that as they move your car to the customer parking bays and practice their clutch control in the process.

I've seen both. But when the driveshaft start spinning in the hub it never stops. However I'll bet it's just new tyres & shit weather.

It was somewhere around Barstow, on the edge of the desert, when the drugs began to take hold. I remember Adrian saying something like:

AAAAARRRRRRRRRRRGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Quite right.

Much as I hate the GM 900, they only used the floorpan from a cav... Oh and the V6 models used the crap 2.5L GM lump...

Motorcycle racer tactic is run a file over new tyres to take the shine off.

Mark tyre and rim, or note tyre valve position to some writing on tyre wall before driving. Check it's still the same after driving.

Lube.

The Kawasaki comp bike "Wot no Turbo" spun the tyre in the rim with ease. It was a huge drag slick running at about 5 psi and he was putting 270bhp though it, 140bhp from 1400cc engine alone + 130bhp from 3 stage N2O. Wound up using bostick and drilling the rim to put self tappers into the tyre bead.

It also used to pickup oil on the gears and hurl it though the breather. 1.5L dumped into the catch tank in 8 secs - it probably all exited in 1st gear so about 2secs. Good job it was a roller bearing crank.

(Colin don't read this)

I much prefer oversteer. When it oversteers I can let go the wheel and it "autosteers" the right way as the steering wheel self centers, not straight ahead but actually turning into the skid. Without letting go there is a definite tug felt though the steering wheel telling the driver where to point it, just needs a gentle touch and the driver to do what the car asks. When it understeers it's simply losing control and the car doesn't have any clue where it's supposed to be going so can't help out - other than going straight on.

About this time last year it told me that I'd replaced the fronts but should have put them on the back. I was going up a hill in snow when the back end just gently slid out to about 5 degree yaw angle. Ease off throttle and it came back, re-apply throttle and out it went again nice and slow, no loss of speed just a slight yaw angle. Just it's way of complaining I'd put the rubber on the wrong way round.

Damn. Too late.

You're making me all reminiscent about the 200SX now. :o(

Cheers,

Colin.