Nuts?

In news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com, T i m wittered on forthwith;

If you're using Pug rims on Ford hubs you'll need to get some ring things, I think they're called spigots but can't remember, so the wheels sit centrally on the hubs. Pug stud pattern is the same but the ID of the wheel is larger than on Ford wheels / hubs.

More 'stuff' to get / find / Pete (but thanks for the info) ;-)

So, where do I get these from please (wheel manufacturer I guess)?

So the shear load of the wheel is taken up on the centre and the studs / nuts just hold the wheel in place?

All the best ..

T i m

In news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com, T i m wittered on forthwith;

Bingo!

You may find your local boy racer wheel emporium has 'em.

Not sure I have one of them but would this be a universal solution or specific to a particular make of rim etc?

All the best ..

T i m

Specific to the size of your hub and the wheel centre.

Try here:

Ah, thanks for that Paul.

So if they can be plastic I'm not sure what purpose they would serve outside of ensuring the wheel is centered pre tightening the wheel nuts (after which I guess you could remove them, if that was possible etc).

Talking of wheel nuts, I'm still not sure what type I should use (or do I just need longer studs and use my existing nuts)?

All the best ..

T i m

They centre the wheel and AFAIK reduce any chance of vibration noise. They are well pinned in by the wheel bolts/studs so there's no chance of removing them.

I would think your standard nuts/studs would be fine (if they look OK with the wheels?) - you'd only need longer ones if you were using spacers (like huge thick washers that go between the hub and the wheel, used to offset the wheels if they have the wrong offset, or if you want it to look stupid ;-)

I don't know how much load they bear, but trust me, if the f****it accident repair place (Gemini Accident Repairs, Wednesbury) miss them out like the bunch of hopeless fuckwitted cowboys they truly are, the steering wobbles like shit afterwards. Oh, and they left the wheelbolts loose on the other side.

"Pete M" wrote in message news:f1an4v$tfo$ snipped-for-privacy@registered.motzarella.org...

Sure about that? What about beetle wheels (I think it was beetle wheels - ones which didn't have a centre ring, anyway)?

I'd have thought the centre bit is to get the wheel on in the right place, then the load is taken by friction between the wheel and hub, which is the bolts are for - to provide the necessary perpendicular force. Then I thought about putting grease/copperslip between the hub and disc, or disc and wheel, which would make it very difficult to get any friction. So now I'm all confused again.

cheers, clive

Hi Tim,

I think genuine Pug wheels (at least those on my 406 do) have a flat face that the bolt bears on as opposed to tapered that you get on most aftermarket wheels. The bolts have a washer presumably so the head doesn't graunch into the wheel. Check this item on Ebay to see what I mean;

Peter

Indeed, I was just suggesting that once they had done their job they might as well be removed as they aren't doing anything any more?

Understood Paul ;-)

No, the std steel wheels and these steel white spokes are comparatively thin where they bolt onto the hub and with the std conical faced wheel nuts the stud fills the nut plus a turn maybe.

The 'Pug' (aftermarket?) alloys seem to have a *much* thicker center and the studs only stick through it by a couple of thread turns (enough to stop the wheel falling off to see what they look like but certainly not enough to drive on). Because the rims are very 'open' you can also clearly see the inner face of the rim is hard up against the disk.

Soo, I was thinking there must either be some sort of 'collared' wheel nut that fills the holes in the ally rim (like a tube with a nut head on), or I will have to fit longer studs or they simply aren't suitable ...?

All the best ..

T i m

Not going back there in a while then no? ;-)

Nice.

Like the tyre fitted that started to jack my Uncles Reliant Robin up under the diff .. till I suggested he checked how many wheels were left on the ground. Then he fitted an asymmetric tyre on the wrong way round ...

All the best ..

T i m

And my trailer wheels (ok they have a centre hub but the wheel isn't a close fit onto it, relying on the cones of the wheel nuts and symmetrical tightening to centre them up)?

That would be my thought as well ..

Hmm, I'm not sure I've ever done that *because* I felt a dry face_to_face contact was a good thing (much though I like Copperslip ).

Most of the drum brakes I've ever played with have a pretty good interference fit over the studs / centre boss and / or a countersunk retaining screw that would also reduce the chance of much movement between drum and hub (Moggy Minor etc).

I can't remember if the Escort disks are retained by a screw or just the caliper?

All the best ..

T i m

Hi Peter,

Ok ..

Understood ..

Ah, good example thanks. But, I've got studs and they are bolts so I though I might need something as per your example but in a 'nutted' form .. ie, the same collar, washer and nut as per your example but hollow and threaded to match my studs (the collar being a mm short of the thickness of the centre web of the ally rim to ensure the 'washer' part hits the rim before the collar hits the hub, if that makes any sense)?

All the best ..

T i m

Depends on the holes. If countersunk you need matching nuts or bolts. If flat faced usually nuts with captive washers - often with a shoulder on the nut which goes down the hole. But ally wheels are usually centred by the hub.

Correct. Except the 'tube' portion that fits inside the stud holes on the wheel is threaded. In effect a long dome head nut, with maybe half of it turned to match the wheel hole diameter, so they use the part of the stud thread that is inside the ally wheel. Usually fitted with thick captive washers. Mike.

In news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com, T i m wittered on forthwith;

Trailers tend not to corner at high speed, neither do Beetles.

If you run, for example, Peugeot wheels on a Ford hub, you'll soon find out why a spigot is a good idea.

I always use Copaslip on hubs just because it makes getting the wheel off that bit easier. I don't like taking a big hammer - even a rubber one - to wheels just to get the bastard things off. Especially when stuck on the hard shoulder in the middle of the night - which is when I tend to get punctures.

Meant to be a screw on Escrot discs. Normally with a cheese head.

You should really use alloy wheel nuts / bolts if you're using alloy wheels though. Some alloys have a hardened insert so you don't have to, but most manufacturers alloys need the proper nuts / bolts.

They're normally fatter bodied than standard ones, with a large captive washer to spread the load. If you've ever had an alloy wheel come off when driving it's normally because you've used the wrong nuts / bolts.

You could throw the question at those guys. They look like they have a wide range of studs bolts and spacers