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Nuts?

Yes, that's what I envisaged Mike. The issue here is there are only a couple of turns of stud thread that protrude though the thick web / boss / centre of the wheel so the well would nearly *only* be held on by any thread up the tube bit, rather than within the body of any 'nut' portion of the thing?

Oh, so the above could be correct then?

ie, If your vehicle uses alloys on studs (rather than bolts) and you were to remove one peer down the hole with a torch you would see the stud sitting it a tubular hole (the hole being noticeably bigger than it needed to be to fit over the stud) the tip of the stud just sticking out over the level of the bottom of the main part of the hole (where the nut would sit). The retaining nut you now have in yer hand would have 3 discrete sections, tubular threaded section, flat / tapered middle and hex headed head (the whole thing could be bored through and threaded).

Well, it looks like the bottom of the holes are tapered, soo, I would need some 'nuts' with the right taper and right thread (tubular bit diameter and length to match the wheels ) to match the Ford studs.

So with 16 of these plus spigot rings this cheap set of wheels isn't so cheap? ;-(

All the best ..

T i m

Reply to
T i m
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You guessed. The acctual body repairs were shit too. This was my insurance company's 'approved repairer' (ie: Cheap).

Ooh... what's that rattle? It's getting worse. Should the wheel shake like that?

It lost 1 bolt out of 4 by the time I stopped, and the rest were finger tight. The garage had driven it back to me as well.

Reply to
Chris Bartram

Ford never used a screw to retain the discs on Escorts since the early

1990's. They just use a clip (spire nut?) that pushes over the threads.

Chris

Reply to
Chris Whelan

I had exactly the same thing when an artic backed into my (Company) Sierra estate whilst it was parked at work. 'Approved repairer' made a s**te job of it and the car was never the same again ;-(

Crikey. Reminds me why I do all my own repairs (wherever possible) Chris ;-)

All the best ..

T i m

Reply to
T i m

The 'studs' are usually bolts which are simply an interference fit in the hub so easily changed - if you can source the correct but longer ones.

I'd be inclined to contact a specialist - they should be used to this sort of problem.

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

It really sounds like you need new studs and wheel nuts. Even when shouldered nuts like I've described are used, the studs are normally about 10-12mm longer than the thickness of the ally wheel. As a rule of thumb, you need the nut thread to engage about 1.5 times the thread diameter to ensure the wheels are secure.

If you can knock one of the stud inserts out of the hub there are specialist Co's that can supply off the shelf studs that are a suitable length (longer) for your wheels. Google for wheel studs. Suitable nuts might be obtainable from a breakers

There are 2 basic types of stud holes for ally wheels. 1 type has plain large diameter holes, and uses the flat shouldered type of nut with a captive washer mentioned. The other has steel inserts with a taper seat cast into the ally wheel, and uses the same type of taper seating nut as that for steel wheels. Mike.

Reply to
Mike G

Ok, makes sense thanks.

Don't they just have fine splines that are a good interference (pressed) fit into the hub / half shaft drive flange etc?

Ok .. or my local car spares place is quite good now I know what I might need to be looking out for.

Ok ..

Ok .. .

Ah, and that may be what I have then as they are definitely tapered and I can stick a magnet on them to see if there are steel inserts in there or not.

All the best ..

T i m

Reply to
T i m

Ah that was what I think I remember now .. should have taken note as I was looking at it yesterday! (that's old age for ya ..) ;-(

All the best ..

T i m

Reply to
T i m

Ah, I for some reason assumed it'd be based on Mk1 or Mk2 running gear as the Mk5 Escort is s**te.

Reply to
Pete M

Yes, but IME most are easily removed. They're usually not that tight, as all the spline needs to do is hold them firmly in place whilst fitting or removing the wheel, and prevent them rotating when the nuts are tightened.

You can either knock them out. or use a short tube large diameter nut etc, that clears the head, then use a 'G' clamp overall to push them out. To fit them, you can use a wheel nut and a length of tube, to pull them into the hub flange. The final positioning will take place when the wheels are fitted and torqued up.

Doesn't sound like it, if as you say your wheels have the taper 'inside' he stud hole. On all the wheels I've seen of this type, the taper seats have been on the outside surface of the wheel, so the wheel is 'clamped' over it's full thickness. Mike.

Reply to
Mike G

If they haven't been Copaslipped, and sieze on, you can avoid the big hammer by loosening the bolts a copule of turns and driving forward slowly.

Reply to
Chris Bartram

Tried to do that with a rear wheel on a Ford Excursion. Ended up with the wheel nuts on finger tight, wheelspinning the thing around the block. Still no movement, hit the tyre with a huge rubber mallet, still no movement, tried again, nothing.

Ended up getting it off by parking the Excursion next to a steel post - RSJ type thing -holding a building up, tying the wheel to the post using a windlass type set up with a huge length of scaffolding - and the big hammer again. Eventually it came off, but it took far too much persuasion.

Coated the hub with Copaslip and now it's not even a slight problem, which is nice.

Reply to
Pete M

Tried to do that with a rear wheel on a Ford Excursion. Ended up with the wheel nuts on finger tight, wheelspinning the thing around the block. Still no movement, hit the tyre with a huge rubber mallet, still no movement, tried again, nothing.

Ended up getting it off by parking the Excursion next to a steel post - RSJ type thing -holding a building up, tying the wheel to the post using a windlass type set up with a huge length of scaffolding - and the big hammer again. Eventually it came off, but it took far too much persuasion.

Coated the hub with Copaslip and now it's not even a slight problem, which is nice.

Reply to
Pete M

Tried to do that with a rear wheel on a Ford Excursion. Ended up with the wheel nuts on finger tight, wheelspinning the thing around the block. Still no movement, hit the tyre with a huge rubber mallet, still no movement, tried again, nothing.

Ended up getting it off by parking the Excursion next to a steel post - RSJ type thing -holding a building up, tying the wheel to the post using a windlass type set up with a huge length of scaffolding - and the big hammer again. Eventually it came off, but it took far too much persuasion.

Coated the hub with Copaslip and now it's not even a slight problem, which is nice.

Reply to
Pete M

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