Re: Rover 420 Turbo Diesels

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Everyone knows a Rover rots. So what's up with the gearboxes. Were they not using Pug boxes? My last 214 had 141k and the box was still as smooth as ever.

Reply to
gazzafield

Different motor.

Reply to
Conor

"gazzafield" wrote in message news:V6-dnXjP2JGrlg snipped-for-privacy@pipex.net...

L series diesel, MAP/MAF sensors can get a bit lazy with a driving in glue sensation.

200/25 varient can achieve around 50mpg so 400/45 version can't be too far behind.

Check acoustic pan is in one piece as can be difficult to replace.

Washer line over tailgate tends to fracture with age, easy fix with fish tank hose and connectors.

Metal actuator on rear tailgate lock tends to rust with the result that it will not fully lock or pop open when on the move, remove, de-rust, grease heavily, re-fit, no more probs.

Other than that, no other major issues through 9 years of owning a 200(R), then 25(Y). Bosch "Fly By Wire" system is pretty reliable other than the MAP/MAF issue listed above.

PDH.

Reply to
Paul Hubbard

box is a Honda on 420

Reply to
nacional

They use the infamous Rover PG1 box, the bane of T-series turbo owners everywhere. Having said that, I've never heard of problems when they're mated to the oil burners. I think it's only the petrol turbos that seem to overwhelm them.

I ran my 220SDi for many tens of thousands of miles with a chipped motor, and never had any issues with the gearbox.

Reply to
Andy Tucker

Thanks for that Paul. I take they have a timing belt and not a chain?

Reply to
gazzafield

"gazzafield" wrote in message news: snipped-for-privacy@pipex.net...

You have in total three belts (not that bad, honest).

1 x alternator belt, flat type ribbed on one side. Two sizes - aircon and non aircon. 1 x Timing Belt. 1 x Bosch injector pump belt (other end of engine from timing belt).

The alternator belt is a doddle to change, jack up and take off the drivers side wheel, use a metric 10 spanner on the auto tension device to slacken enough to pop the belt off (it's spring loaded, the spanner allows you to operate the tension nut). Oil changes on an L are even better, remove the acoustic pan, jack up and remove the drivers side wheel, oil filter is in front of you wth sump nut just behind and lower down. All accessable from the wheel arch.

PDH

Reply to
Paul Hubbard

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