Rust, the age old problem

I have a van and it's started showing signs of rusting on the bodywork and on small areas of the chassis, I want to permanently fix the rust so it doesn't come back.

Now, What I was thinking to do was blast the rusty areas with glass beads till 100% clean then treat with zinc phosphate "Metal Ready", fill with car body filler, prime and re-spray the entire panel.

Does this sound like the proper way to tackle the rust?

Also do any of you know where to get or buy on-line a tube with a multidirectional nozzle that's used for spraying waxoyl on the inside of sills etc I saw someone using one once and I think it was hooked up to a compressor? I checked out Frost but no luck so far.

Thanks in advance to anyone who can help or pass an opinion ;-)

Smeghead.

Reply to
Smeghead
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The tube with those hand pumps is pretty s**te, it's just a length of small bore tube with a nail in the end.. honnestly, the nail has a flat on it's shank to allow the fluid to get past it, and be 'sprayed' out when it hist the head of the nail.

i bought an air underseal gun years ago, and that thing came with a 2 foot hose and proper nozzle as an accessory (when using normal underseal you keep the standard nozzle on it and spray directly from the gun, but for doing inside box sections you use the hose)

Anyway, i use the tins of waxoil sold for underseal guns, using that with the hose and nozzle i get a very good spread of the stuff inside box sections and the like.

a hell of a lot better than the crappy hand pump method, keep the can of waxoil warm if you can tho, as it helps how far it gets ejected, but the air spray gun is designed to move the very thick underseal, so move the hose about fast as your putting a lot on with a pull of the trigger.

Reply to
CampinGazz

I've heard it mentioned lots on alt.fan.landrover that thinning the waxoyl 50/50 with white sprit is worth doing.

Reply to
Simon Barr

The problem with Waxoyl (IIRC) is that it's thixotropic - i.e. it's runny when you stir it, but treacly when standing. The oyl in the tube can't be stirred, so it's very difficult to shift. I've found that if you thin it enough to pump, it goes on so thin it all drips off again.

FWIW, I flush the tube & pump out with neat white spirit after use, then really shake the tin before starting. I've had no trouble doing it that way. Also apply on the hottest possible day so it creeps into all the seams, & NOT in your garage so the drips don't go all over the floor.

Also, I've had better results by removing the nail & using an old MIG tip, ~ 5mm dia, after blocking the end & putting two transverse cuts 1/2 way through with a Junior hacksaw. (Not opposite each other!)

HTH, Dave

Reply to
Dave

Hahaha!!!

Have you guys figured out why my usenet name is....

FE02 welder.

Reply to
FEo2 Welder

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