Can you tell me what to use to stop bolts coming undone, e.g. bolts securing calipers to wheel hubs or ring gear to the carrier in a differential. Is superglue the right stuff to use?
Thanks, Adam
Can you tell me what to use to stop bolts coming undone, e.g. bolts securing calipers to wheel hubs or ring gear to the carrier in a differential. Is superglue the right stuff to use?
Thanks, Adam
Superglue will probably work, but you're knackered if you want to get the bolts undone again. Use a threadlock compound, available for a few quid from any motorist discount shop or Halfrauds
Dan
bolts
aSuperglue is no good at all for locking screws. I'de suggest you use 'Loctite No 242' Fairly strong threadlocking solution. Best baught from an automotive factors or small tool supply co. Mike.
I've never seen a locking compound specified for callipers - you just do them up to the correct torque.
The usual thread locking stuff is Locktite - you'll get it from any decent accessory shop. But there are different types for different jobs.
It's the blue Loctite for that isn't it?
How naive! No previous posts and an idiotic question. You don't half fall for it, DaveK.
?????????????????? : )
How naive! No previous posts and an idiotic question. You don't half fall
Now you're confused. DaveK.
You mean replying to the OP? S'ok, I treat everyone as the lowest common denominator LOL, until I know better, especially when I'm surfing while boozing. ; ) , cheers !!!!
Stuart.
I've had a few, but I still check. The OP has some knowledge but never wielded a spanner in anger in his life. Best wishes, DaveK.
Quite common actually , Mark1 Fiestas spring to mind. (Actually the instructions say use new bolts but all you get is a 10.9 bolt with preapplied threadlock)
Threadlock.
That's super advice. Saved me from doing irreparable damage perhaps. I've placed an order for a suitable product now.
Adam
Just check you've bought the right one. Screwlocks wimpy, stud & bearing fit'll glue smooth plates together in a fashion that requires heat to separate them.
co.
perhaps.
& bearingheat to
Loctite have different strength threadlocking products, to suit whatever strength is req'd.
242 is one of the stronger ones, but can still be dismantled with ordinary tools if the need arises. Their studlock is slightly stronger. None of their screw or studlock products _should_ need heat to dismantle. OTOH, their retaining, and some of their bearing fit products. I,e, those intended for semi permanent applications, probably will need heat if used correctly. 200-250 degrees C, to break the bond. AFAIK they are the only Loctite products that do. Mike.
Ahh, the cheap and lazy method.
Personally I prefer some sort of mechanical locking arrangement (e.g. spring washers, split pins, tabbed washers, locking washers etc).
Mechanical arrangements are more obvious and you don't end up breaking torx T-40 bits trying to undo them (i.e. transit calipers...).
-- James
Almost the opposit for everything upto studlock, they seem to reduce the corrosion
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