Radiator blew out

My 96 witk 60000 Miles has a crack about 15cm long in it. Replacing the radiator in on my to do list, along with the timing belt. At the moment I keep a close eye on the temp gauge, and put in about a gallon of coolant a fortnight. I think 10 years is about average for a plastic tank.

More likely a weeping seal dripping coolant onto the belt. A leaking cam cover gasket can do the same thing.

Certainly there was no oil on the belts. After the radiator blew coolant all over everthing, there would be no way to tell about the first theory, but it sounds plausible.

Anyway, $1200 for radiator, water pump, front and rear pads, and an oil change. She's running like new. I've noticed that the valve lifter noise comes back 3-4K after an oil change, even using synthetic. I'm considering switching back to regular oil and changing it every 3K, to keep the tick,...tick...tick away. Pretty expensive to change synthetic that often. Any danger in switching back after using synthetic for so long, I wonder?

Every car I've owned that came with a plastic tank radiator has had the plastic tank fail. This includes two that were warrenty replacements and the warrenty replacement failed after the warrenty ran out. In some cases, it's possible to have a radiator shop replace tha plastic tank with a metal one. Others, you just bite the bullet, and get an all metal radiator. (Several of the failures were on Mazdas.)

Sounds like a bargin. Here in Australia, an original style plastic tank radiator is around $450AUD ($300USD?). Any fellow antipodeans know where I can get a metal radiator at a sensible price?

"Mal Osborne" wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@quokka.wn.com.au:

I just picked one up for under $130 US from

I couldn't find anything definitive on their website about sales outside the US, but they do say this: "..if you live outside of the continental United States, expedited and special arrangement shipping is available for an extra cost. For your specific shipping needs, please contact us via e-mail for the quickest reply." Here's their contact page: I found several US-based retailers w/ prices under $150 when I bought mine.. HTH

-Scott

Thanks. Their online database is a little screwy, it lists MX-5 as being a

1.6 in 92, 94, & 96, and MIATA as being a 1.8 in 92, 94 & 96. Sounds like I am being picky, but hate to get the wrong one.. Think I may look a little harder on this continent first.

"Leon van Dommelen" wrote

Back to the ease of of removing the shield and ignoring perceived insults - I added an electric screwdriver to the mix and can remove the undercarriage shield in about two minutes. There are 3 screws, 2 nuts and 6 bolts. As Leon mentioned, they are all 10mm. My Black & Decker with its articulated handle allows easy access to the horizontal bolts in the wheel wells.

I pull the shields for every oil change to not only get improved filter access but to get a good look at what is going on with the engine. Especially for the short crank '90.