Not Dojj, but yeah, the 2.9v6 is the Essex / Cologne block and the 24v version is the Cosworth prepared type which comes in more than one version, but these are all chain driven, some have one chain, some two. Come to that the 12v is also chain driven, but is a pushrod so you'd rather assume that it was.
What you getting it out of?
uk.adverts.cars reader ? :-)
Are the Ford 2.9V6 24v engines chain or belt driven?
Are all of them Cosworth engines?
Peter
Heh! Chain driven does sound like a big plus :-)
Peter
chain BOA has one (for both banks) BOB has two (one either side) if it's let go, you are looking at lots of money to put it right
I wouldn't get too excited about the Cosworth on that front alone, the chains are long, they stretch and have questionable guides / tensioners. Honest John says they're scheduled for 80,000 mile replacement, but HJ is a journo and ignorant of the notion that chains generally last out the engine.
HST, if the guides are shagged at 80,000 miles and you go to the bother of changing them, you ought to also change the chain as the old chain will wear the guides / tensioners in much the same way as a new cam will be shagged by the old followers pretty quick.
Boils down to the chain *maybe* needing replacement at some unknown mileage that might be "quite soon" or might not be needing it for half a million. The clue is how much the engine rattles when starting up from cold when the car isn't parked facing downhill or loaded with an overly viscous oil to hide the symptoms.
Hope this helps.
Course, if you're willing to put a new chain and tensioners and guides in, this is peripheral and might be the only time you need to do it, unlike cam belts.
Ah well, doesn't matter now anyway, I was only slightly considering getting it, and it looks like dojj is getting it now! Probably a more deserving home as he really knows his way around those engines.
Peter
so you've let me have it then? sorted mate :) thanks for pointing it out :) to be honest though, the guides and chain replacement is about a £400 parts alone job and easiest with the engine out which is why my mate charges £1200 to do the job!!!!!!!!!!!
Quite. Cam belts are cheaper on that score. I did hear a rumour that Cosworth are happy to trade in against exchange engines that have been rebuilt to "as new" mechanical condition for what seemed remarkably reasonable prices, which if true would be worth thinking about.
wouldn't have thought so ford sold them at £6k a pop as a complete engine (and when you consider that rocker cover gaskets are £300 a side because they come with a rocker cover) they sold their last "crated" engine a while ago and now there are no spares to be had for that engine form ford there has been a 6 month wait for piston rings even though it's cheaper and quicker to get custom pistons made up to spec
you may purchase it if you like went to see it and it needs a battery, wipers, and at least one tyre (cords showing where it's split) and it's a 12V 2.9 not 24V like I wanted :( a bit of spit and polish would do it wonders though :)
In news:cgt5ct$7qg$ snipped-for-privacy@news6.svr.pol.co.uk, dojj decided to enlighten our sheltered souls with a rant as follows
talking of 24Vs...
how hard is it to twin turb a 24v?
Just out of interest, like.... ;-)
"Pete M" wrote in message news:SDqYc.1168$ snipped-for-privacy@news-text.cableinet.net...
very for a start you need blowers, T28's seem to be the way to go, but then again, the saab T25's are also a good contender (but which ones, as there are a few variants, i couldn't say) then you will need custom manifolds that clear everything (when i say everything, you still need to relocate the abs pump as it gets in the way) thats the boost side of things sorted, well, apart from an intercooler and pipework you also need to get custom pistons (there is someone who says they can get them, but to be honest, they last about 40 miles before they overheat and crack, mentioning no names here) and do fairly extensive head work, again, trade secrets here so no letting on what goes on internaly, i'm sure you understand :) on top of all that, you eed stand alone manegement as the EEC4 ford stuff doesn't "see" more than 2psi worth of boost before it gives up with the thick end of £10k going into mine, i'm sure it will do the business, but there are so many small things that need to be done that it's not a cheap option i can tell you make a mistake with the headwork and it's a scrap head, no longer any use to anyone don't sort the oil flow out and it runs dry at the bottom end and thats a new crank thank you very much too much boost on the EEV4 and it runs lean, which, again, does irripairable damge to everything and then you have to rememebr that too many revs will kill it (in at least 3 ways) and we ain't talking a simple blow up, you have to work out what went wrong first before you can solve the problem and stand alone management solves this problem (but yet again, i can't tell you exactly what else goes apart from the main bearings even though they are strengthened in the 24V block compared to the 12V version)
it all depends on what you want to know, and how you want to do it single turbo is a sensible option if you just want it blown, and piggy back stuff can be had to make this work, but it does need carefull mapping to stop any of the afrementioned problems occouring
there are various threads over at
there are one or 2 people who actually know what they are tlaking baout, but trying to seperate the bull from the wise is impossible
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