Re: Honda Civic (Wheels)

Jul 06, 2003 12 Replies


I'm looking to fit 17" or 18" alloys to a 1995 3 dr Honda Civic lowered > 60mm.


>
> Can anyone tell me what kind of arch work that I should be expecting to do,
> and roughly how much it should cost? Also any advice on ideal tyre size and
> wheel offset etc would be great.

You'll bugger up your acceleration...


I have heard this, but I can't quite understand why, am I being slow?

Jack

17's shouldn't cause you too much hassle, 18's will be more work obviously.

Go here -

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Get tyres that give roughly the same rolling radius as your present ones, slightly smaller is ok, you don't really want em any bigger...

-- Dan

Why ? more disdavantages than advantages put a set of 185/55x15 on anything else will bugger up the handling and give you a very sore backside -- the ride is bad enough on the standard car.

I'm quite partial to a nice set of big rims, to be honest. You're right in that 17" or 18" is too big for a little Civic though - 16" maximum I rekon.

They'll be plenty heavier than your current rims, so more of your power is used in simply turning the wheels. It'll only have minimal effect though - the real kicker comes when the alloys you fit, have a bigger diameter (of wheel AND tyre) than your old ones. Bigger wheel circumference, raises your gearing.

No, but the car will.

Seriously though. Rubber is slightly lighter than most off the shelf alloys. On a road car with say 15 or 16", compared to a modded car with

17 or 18" you get more rubber and less metal.

If you reduce the ammount of rubber (low pro tyres) and increase the amount of metal (bigger rim) you are actually adding weight to the drive train. Weight that the engine and box have to spin up. Most people skim metal from the flywheel to get it to spin up faster. Then those who don't know what they are doing add weight to 4 more important flywheels (at each corner of the car). Also the larger diameter of wheel will also have an effect on how quickly it can be spun up too (even though the overall tyre/Wheel dia is the same), because you've moved more of the mass outwards, with leads to more inertia.

Don't know where you this the idea from but on a decent well engineered wheel an inch of metal is lighter than an inch of road tyre however some of the crap alloy wheels that are sold these days aren't exactly light when buying wheels always find out the weight if the manufacturer isn't shouting about it buy another make.

In article , snipped-for-privacy@nowhere.freeserve.co.uk spouted forth into uk.rec.cars.modifications...

Yep, that is the problem. A decent Magnesium or Aluminium motorsport wheel will be a) as strong and lighter, or b) the same weight, but stronger, as the equivalent steel wheel.

Most fashion alloys are neither (well maybe stronger a little), but even then won't stand upto much abuse.

No, because your tyre-space is 99% air. Every inch you increase the alloy, adds a pap-load of extra metal. Every inch you decrease the tyre, removes some air !

Meatball is right - think about it.

snipped-for-privacy@bgood.fslife.co.uk

We've a Ka on 18s, and it looks a bit . . . erm . . . well it's not to my taste.

He's also running a turbocharged 1.6 CVH donk with /cough/ 200 PS. ;)

snip

Yech. Small cars on big rims always look like rollerskates to me!

"Looks" are the least of his worries !

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