Re: steveh's next car

=20

I saw V6's when I was considering one. I would have loved one, but I=20 really couldn't have afforded low double figure fueling, rather the=20 fairly low I get now.

--=20 The poster formerly known as Skodapilot.

Or me....... mind, I'm not really a fan of the early 75s, and the Veloce came with the snow-plough bodykit.

Still, £650. That's cheap.

I want it, but it's too far away. That could replace my Volvo /and/ Supra.

Richard

In news:BD82224D.15DDE% snipped-for-privacy@NOSPAMbtconnect.com, Richard Kilpatrick decided to enlighten our sheltered souls with a rant as follows

I want it and it's about 6 miles from me.

"Think torque, think torque...."

As I said before, I'd be happy to relieve you of that burden... ;-)

Be nice to show all my S13 owning mates the definition of 'wet weather progress'!

-- JackH

I assume we're thinking its 198,880 miles and not 19,888? Although, for £650, whats the worst that could happen :) ?

I think it's 1988 E, myself...

I want it. But I've got another Toyota Sera to repair.

Richard

The clutch could be shot which will cost you another £600 to put right.

The glass is *always* half empty with your used car purchases innit?

Of course. It's the best way, IMHO.

Avoids expensive costs later. I'd only buy a V6 if there was evidence of the clutch having been replaced within the last 30k miles. Even then it's a gamble, as a worn out cluch effectively writes off the car.

Yeah. but surely if it's been treated well and is still in decent nick and you know that you can treat it with respect then there's little risk involved, no?

Peter

-- "The truth is working in television is not very glamorous at all. I just go home on my own at night and sit alone and eat crisps."

Not really.

When I bought my 75 the clutch was fine - tested it before buying etc.

A few thousand miles later it was slipping under power in 4th and 5th.

Fortunately, the TS clutch is a lot cheaper than a V6 clutch.

If the above had happened with a V6 I'd probably have flogged it rather than replace the clutch.

Is that some sort of design fault? I just can't see how a well treated clutch can be knackered after such a short time. Unless you abused it something chronic? Or is that something Alfas lend themselves towards? :-)

Peter

-- "The truth is working in television is not very glamorous at all. I just go home on my own at night and sit alone and eat crisps."

It's something that happens.

Clutch plates are a consumable item, it's highly likely the clutch was almost worn out when I bought it, so a few months of driving later had it worn to such an extent it started slipping.

Then you obviously didn't check it well enough when you bought it :-)

When I bought my Mk5 Fester van I tried to knock the bloke down because the clutch was quite worn (probably about 60-65% worn), but he wouldn't have any of it. I bought it anyway, as it was at a bloody good price anyway, and the clutch was still just as good 40,000 miles later when the oil cooler packed up and I ended up flogging it on ebay rather than fixing it. Still, all it cost me over 40k was a couple of tyres, 6 oil changes, one air filter, plus I lost a fraction over a grand in depreciation on it. But most of that grand was due to the engine having the head off when I sold it on. Not all that terrible really.

Peter

-- "The truth is working in television is not very glamorous at all. I just go home on my own at night and sit alone and eat crisps."

And how would you check this, then?

I did the stall test etc, but couldn't get it to slip at all on the test.

I'd just gauge it from how much travel there was before the biting point on other ones I'd driven. If this one was significantly higher then I'd budget for a replacement.

Peter

-- "The truth is working in television is not very glamorous at all. I just go home on my own at night and sit alone and eat crisps."

This can be hard to do when you're dealing with a hydraulic clutch one a self-adjusting cable mechanism.