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18 years ago
What type of gas do I have to run in this thing? The local station sells 87 and 89 with ethanol. I can by octane boast cheap also should I run that with the 87? or can I run the 89 with boost or should I just go to a different station.
Thanks, TC
Also this is for a friend.
I need to know the location of the alarm valet/override button. It is suppose to be under the dash/steering column. I can't find it
Thanks in advanced.
Well, that will depend on several things. On my 95 you pressed the little blinking light on the dash It also had a reset button WAY under the dash, on a little black box.
On my CObra, I have no idea where it is, I would say get upsidedown under the drivers side and look around till you see something with a button on it.
I emailed them and they do require oil.
Good Job RIchard. Thanks!
That reminds me, time to clean my K&N again.. and my MAF while I'm in there
*sigh* wht a pain in the arse.Kate
| > So I dunno. | >
| > Damned if I am going to change my monitor settings and hunt down my | glasses | > just to read a website on something I am not planning to buy for awhile. | > If ever. | >
| > Maybe they DO have a dry one | > You could ask ol Bill S. (check the big block group) which one he was | > talking about | >
| > Kate | >
| >
| > | > Actually, I didn't realize this before you ask. | > | > I went to their VERY slow loading website and wandered till I found | it. | > | >
| > | > Yup, it DOES use oil | > | >
| > | > So then, why do you suppose ol' whatsisname recommended it over the | K&N | > ?? | > | >
| > | > Kate | > | >
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How often are you cleaning the filter? K&N service specs indicate a 50-100K miles cleaning interval depending upon driving conditions.
Aboout once a year... but it's been a little over that, though I have only put about 9000 miles on it in the last year and a half... most of that because we moved across the country and I drove it.
I just think it should be done, because it MUST get dirty.
Kate
| > That reminds me, time to clean my K&N again.. and my MAF while I'm in | there | > *sigh* | > wht a pain in the arse. | >
| > Kate | >
| > | > So I dunno. | > | >
| > | > Damned if I am going to change my monitor settings and hunt down my | > | glasses | > | > just to read a website on something I am not planning to buy for | awhile. | > | > If ever. | > | >
| > | > Maybe they DO have a dry one | > | > You could ask ol Bill S. (check the big block group) which one he was | > | > talking about | > | >
| > | > Kate | > | >
| > | >
| > | > | > Actually, I didn't realize this before you ask. | > | > | > I went to their VERY slow loading website and wandered till I | found | > | it. | > | > | >
| > | > | > Yup, it DOES use oil | > | > | >
| > | > | > So then, why do you suppose ol' whatsisname recommended it over | the | > | K&N | > | > ?? | > | > | >
| > | > | > Kate | > | > | >
| > | > | >
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| > | > | | > | > | | > | >
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Here's the answer to the FAQ on the K&N site about cleaning
The general rule of thumb is that the filter needs to be cleaned when the dirt build up gets as thick as the wire mesh. The usual interval is 30,000 -
50,000 miles depending on driving conditions. We recommend that you check your filter about once a year in normal usage.Interesting that the sticker that came with my filter made reference to the
50-100K interval. Regardless, cleaning at 9K appears unnecessary unless extremely dusty conditions prevailed.I thought that I had read somewhere that the slight buildup of dust actually helped in the cleaning without affecting air flows. Couldn't find that reference though.
Here's K&N response to the MAF sensor contamination theory.
At this time, K&N is unaware of any evidence that K&N air filter oil from a K&N air filter can damage or cause the malfunction of a MAF sensor, regardless of the make of the vehicle involved. K&N takes seriously any claim that one of its products is incompatible with its designated application or can damage or cause the malfunction of any automotive component. Such claims are thoroughly investigated and, when appropriate, testing is undertaken to determine their merit. In the case of MAF sensors, ongoing tests have shown that contamination from K&N air filter oil has not caused any failures or malfunctions of the MAF sensors in the test vehicles. K&N is aware that MAF sensors can become contaminated for a variety of reasons, unrelated to a K&N air filter (such as backfiring, blowby, leaking airbox or leaking intake duct) and that various methods have been used by some service departments and repair shops to clean a dirty or contaminated MAF sensor, such as spraying with an appropriate cleaner. K&N has not completed any tests as to the efficacy of such a process and, therefore, does not officially endorse or recommend any cleaning process. However, if given the choice of either replacing a MAF sensor or cleaning it, K&N recommends that the consumer ask his or her automotive dealer to attempt cleaning, before replacement. It should be noted that the presence of contamination does not mean the contamination was the cause of the MAF sensor failure. Sensors can fail for electrical or mechanical reasons, unrelated to any visible contamination.
Well, I think that they are full of it.
Common sense will dictate that the MAF will get some of the oil, even if a microscopic amount from the air flowing through the filter. Also... seriously Richard... would you REALLY wait till your air cleaner got that dirty to clean it?
I keep my engine compartment spic & span, I'm sure not going to let the innards of my engine get dirty if all it takes ia half an hour to clean a filter. I have allot invested in this car, I want it to be good for as long as possible.
Your mileage may vary.
Thanks for the info, I had read most of it before. I'm just kind of a real stickler for maintenance.
Kate
| >
| > 20. How do I know when to clean the filter? | >
| > The general rule of thumb is that the filter needs to be cleaned when the | > dirt build up gets as thick as the wire mesh. The usual interval is | 30,000 - | > 50,000 miles depending on driving conditions. We recommend that you check | > your filter about once a year in normal usage. | >
| > Interesting that the sticker that came with my filter made reference to | the | > 50-100K interval. Regardless, cleaning at 9K appears unnecessary unless | > extremely dusty conditions prevailed. | >
| > I thought that I had read somewhere that the slight buildup of dust | actually | > helped in the cleaning without affecting air flows. Couldn't find that | > reference though. | >
| >
| >
| > -- | > Richard | >
| > '94 GT 'vert | > Under Drive Pulleys | > Transgo HD2 Reprogramming Kit | > High Stall Torque Converter | > 4:10 Gears | > Gripp Sub Frame Connectors (welded) | > FRPP Aluminum Drive shaft | > FRPP M5400-A Suspension | > Laser Red | >
| > > I just think it should be done, because it MUST get dirty. | > >
| > > Kate | > >
| >
| >
| |
Well no I wouldn't let mine get that dirty. However, getting dirty does not mean that you are letting the innards of your engine get dirty. A dirty filter can/will restrict the air flow and there is where you lose power and fuel economy. I suspect that a dirty filter will give you cleaner air but less of it. As far as the MAF is concerned, all I wanted to point out was that a miniscule amount of filter oil should not affect its performance. Now, how do you clean and dry your air filter in 30 minutes?
| Now, how do you clean and dry your air filter in 30 minutes?
OHhhhh... I never said it DRIES that fast LOL Drives me crazy! But I do use the air compressor to blow allot of the water out of it.
Kate
Now you may indeed have dirtier innards. FAQ #22.
No, this can blow the filter material right out of the wire mesh and ruin the filter. Pick a nice day to clean the filter and let it dry naturally.
OK, OK you win. YUCK, girl cooties.
Richard
|:¬Þ
| > quit pickin on me or I am gonna give you girl cooties! | >
| >
| OK, OK you win. YUCK, girl cooties. | | Richard | |
Another question same post. My idle is droping in N from 1000 to 900 then to 600 died a few times. I ran some fs cleaner becuase some people had told me I could run 87 or 89 in the Cobra. Since doing this it has not run right. I have since been running 91 or 93 with boost. I think that I have found that this car is far from factory and am going to take it to the strip to see what it runs in a true 1/4 mile. Factory is 13.99 I think and from what I can tell it will smoke that. Any ideas?
Thanks again, Tom
I don't know what that is.. fs cleaner.
becuase some | people had told me I could run 87 or 89 in the Cobra. Since doing this | it has not run right. I have since been running 91 or 93 with boost.
Did you order that owner's manual yet? That way you do not take the advice of people who do not know what they are talking about.
What kind of boost? THAT may be the problem too. Just plain ol super unleaded avoid ethanol.
| I think that I have found that this car is far from factory and am | going to take it to the strip to see what it runs in a true 1/4 mile. | Factory is 13.99 I think and from what I can tell it will smoke that. | Any ideas? |
Try resetting the computer, disconnect the battery for several minutes. Run some fuel injector cleaner through a full tank of super unleaded. When you think about the difference, using super unleaded is only a buck or two more per tank full, not worth the hassle. The car may run badly for a little while after the reset, that is common, but not more than a day or so.
If the car is not factory, someone may have chipped it or done any number of things to it. Just be careful, don't get her all sideways and break her into pieces.
If you have questions about the problems she's having try this.
1) go to Kragen or someplace like that, have them check it for codes. They do it for free Write them down. 2) come back and repost a new thread. There are allot of people here that know allot about these cars. Sadly the resident troll has run many of them off.Kate
Umm. Open IE to a web page. hold the "Ctrl" key in and scroll the mouse wheel. It's *much* more dramatic in Firefox, but it works in IE too.
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