My old carb was stalling when I punched the gas too hard, I had gotten used to just smoothly flooring it, though suffering the lack of acceleration I've enjoyed. I was more worried for my wife Holly using the car, fearing she'd stall during a left-hand turn at a light somewhere where she couldn't readily restart it safely.
So, rather than a rebuild and waiting a few days, and having a mechanic install it, I decided to buy a rebuilt one [bid actually, got it off ebay] and install it myself. The newly rebuilt carb came today. It was only $30US.
The removal and installation went smoothly. I was careful to check the set up of the old carb [had been tweaked as best it could by a mechanic but he believed the float was probably to blame which only a rebuild could get at. Read - he wouldn't do it for $30. U.S. or otherwise. ;-) ]
The connections were remarkably good except for the vaccum advance which appears to have been a lousy connection plastered with some goop some years ago. The nut was a toughy, but the others were fine. I'd like to replace this line sometime but would not fix won't ain't broke.
New carb installed. Try to fire her up. No gas injection. The lines are much newer than the car itself, maybe 12-15 years old. So I'm thinking the carb is missing something. Was the reservoir even getting any gas?
Not a question of checking the fuel pump, it's only 2 years old. The lines spewed gas anytime I was undoing them, and the previous carb was getting gas properly.
So I undertake something I've never wanted to do - I open the top of the carb. Even with a book handy this was not something I really wanted to do, especially to a newly rebuilt carb. Anyhoos, all looked clean inside. Then I figure, since I really didn't know what I was looking at, I'd open the old carb. I noticed the inlet nozel had a different float pin type. Probably not using the right tech terms here, but basically the nozel thingies weren't the same.
So, I take the old nozel, which looked clean anyways, out of the old carb and insert it into the new carb. Hooked up the fuel line again and crossed fingers.
Got in and cranked. Once, twice, third time lucky - she fired up. Oh boy did she fire up, the idle screw was set way too high.
Now here's my question after all this. Why the hell is the idle speed screw facing upwards and obviously not meant for a screwdriver? I had to use plyers to turn it. What then is the screw facing out the driver's side that is hidden between the back of the carb and the choke housing? THAT should be an idle screw, but slight turns made little difference.
Took her for a spin, set the mixture screw a little richer and she is purring like a kitten now. I did read that this should be set just a half turn backed off of having the engine start to stall and be careful not to crank it all the way in for fear of damaging the jet. Right?
And for a '65 6-cylinder she has a great little kick in her now.
I enjoy doing these cheap little projects so don't diss me on this one. Maybe when I get a Caspian blue '65 GT convertible I'll have the money to splash around. For now it's pray this works so I can drive it to work tomorrow. I mean, I COULD drive the Escape, but nobody smiles at you in one of those.
Andrew Croft
'65 Caspian blue 6 cylinder coupe, blue interior [07.85 to present]