2000 Maxima - electrical problem - need help

Can you characterize the noise? My 2000 Maxima will intermittently make a grinding bushing/squeal kind of noise when 1st started, particularly when the engine is cold. This has been going on for well over a year and the only thing that I have noticed is that it happens more frequently than when it first began. The noise never lasts longer than 2-3 seconds.

Assuming that we both have the same problem, how on earth could a wiring harness be the cause?

fenmanfan - remember me? Since I don't hold grudges over the internet, I'll give you my thoughts.

Your problem might just be a starter that needs replacing. If you are into getting dirty, you can always pop out the starter and relube it. This is just a guess, since I haven't heard the sound in person.

It sounds like your starter is not disengaging once the car has started. This was a fairly common problem on the 95/96 year Maximas. I know you have a 2k, but there is no reason it couldn't be a similar issue.

Another random thought - it could just be a slipping belt. Perhaps it is time for new belts or a tension adjustment.

Just some things to go fiddle with...

Cheers. Nirav

Thank you, kind sir, for your most gracious reply.

Oh yeah, I'm into getting drty alright, but the only reason why I haven't popped out the starter is because the sound I am hearing doesn't sound (to me at least) like the grinding of gear teeth. Rather, it sounds like a bushing going bad. But since the problem NEVER happens except just after I start the cold engine, your theory makes sense. I'm heading to the emerald isle of Ireland tomorrow for a little R&R and will give your idea a try upon my return.

P.S. My 2K is only 10K miles behind your 96.

Gerry

It is not a grinding noise. It is more like motor/servo trying to reset some position automatically. It happens not matter hold or cold weather.

snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com wrote:

Since you mention a motor/servo, two more things come to mind:

1. The IACV (idle air control valve) might be sticking and trying to adjust... see if you can isolate where the sound is coming from in the engine bay (you'll need a helper to turn the key while you listen). FYI, the IACV is located right near the throttle body after the intake.

1. I've read that sometimes the ABS system cycles through the the system valves. I don't know enough about this to say much more - but perhaps some googling might provide you insight.

Gerry, When my starter started to give it up, it started first with almost a screeching sound. It wasn't so much a gear grinding sound. It's a little tricky to diagnose sounds using usenet - perhaps post a audio clip somewhere for us to download and listen to..

Nirav

hmmm we may have a winner here gang.

The IACV returns to a resting position once the engine is shut down, the motor/servo noise only lasts for a few seconds. This is a normal condition.

NissTech,

The IACV location has been driving me nuts. Can someone with a digital camera take a picture of the damned thing?!

I ask because it seems since converting over to a K&N filter (oil based) my idle will dip almost to the point of stalling. I've cleaned the throttle body at least once or twice and that helps temporarily. My next thought (from posts and the web) was the IACV valve.

Can this be cleaned or only replaced?

Thanks all & especially NissTech.

NissTech wrote:

Mike, you don't state the year of your Maxima. On the 4th Gens, the IACV is bolted to the plenum right behind the throttle body. On the 5th Gens, I believe the IACV is integrated into the TB assembly.

Cheers, Nirav

codes coming up on the car are 1320, PO171, PO174 what could be the problem. Could it be a problem with only coil or do all

Also when I am at 40mph I feel as if I am loosing power.

Mine did the same thing (concerning the loss of power). I replaced the Mass Air Flow Sensor and the problem was solved.

Can you tell me what it costs for a Mass Air Flow sensor and is it easy to replace yourself, easy to get to? Thanks, Ed

The Mass Air Flow Sensor is easy to replace with a 10mm socket and a screwdriver. They usually are about $500 but I found mine at

Chuck in Dallas

Hi,

I just had the exact same thing today. So should I try the MAF first or the coils?

Thanks

If you really have a coil problem, you should have a constant miss when running (I think). They replaced my coils on extended warranty because the engine light came on. I never noticed any difference with the way it ran. When the MAF went, the car would hardly run. =============================