1. Home
  2. Nissan Maxima Forum
  3. Maxima Headlights - Nissan settles with 02/03 NJ owners for $325k
  4. Page 2

Maxima Headlights - Nissan settles with 02/03 NJ owners for $325k

Here's some ideas:

Halogen bulbs get weaker with age. Maybe your bulbs have dimmed due to time.

When driving at night, always have your interior instrument lighting as low as possible. Spin that wheel so that your gages are on but not so bright. Ideally the gage light should be a s low as possible, but you can still read it. The gage lighting is actually competing with the light from your headlights. Some Saabs actually have a button that turns all interior agaes off except the speedo or somthing like that. Nice touch IMO.

With street lighting I would expect that you won't see your headlights. For example, I drive in NYC and don't see my headlights at all, even at midnight. When I get to the suburbs, however, street lighting is minimal, if at all, and my very same headlights are bright as can be.

With newer cars today and HIDs with projector beams, it's much easier to be blind sided by an on-coming HID equipped car, especially if it hits a bump.

Reply to
Codifus
Loading thread data ...

I....You've measured all the correct voltages, ...Cheers, Voltages are correct. lol. And squirrels carry the electrons in a plastic bag...

CURRENT. Hmmm. what is that.

VOLTAGE. Hmmm. what is that. [smtg yall ppl all correct or whatever?]

LOAD. Hmmm. what is that.

NOLOAD. Hmmm. what is that. Any difference to LOAD? Naah, be happy dont compare, troublsome...

CONNECTOR(s) TRANSITION RESISTANCE Hmmm. what is that.

WIRE RESISTANCE Hmmm. what is that.

Ω LAW. Hmmm. what is that. A sweet?

Calculate. Hmm. What&Why??? At least yall ppl. DO NOT TEST -or- measure -or- click for info! It would take multiple minutes. ...just complain.

This circ example pic doesnt yet count Nissan switches and relays contact transition resistances:

formatting link
DONT click:
formatting link

Reply to
Wiikinki

filament brightness increase consumes lamps 50% faster, but theyre cheap, see

formatting link

Your tone suggests that you are perhaps getting a little ahead of yourself. I measured voltage at the connector (unloaded) and it was

14.2V as stated in my earlier post.

Given that I have sufficient voltage at the bulb socket - I don't see why any other measurement matters. If the current wires are in that poor a shape or too small in diameter to carry the demand placed on them by the current drawn by the bulb, then they would melt or overheat- and clearly that has not happened.

Why does transitional loss between the battery and the socket matter? I have established that there is sufficient voltage AT the socket between the high and ground... so clearly there is no siginificant transitional loss.

To be clear, my lights are not dim, like they would be if I had a weak battery and turned them on without starting the car.

Nirav

Reply to
njmodi

...Halogen bulbs get weaker with age. Maybe your bulbs have dimmed due to time.... This is true. Easy to change...

Wirings, connectors do age also along oxidation. Smtg can be done: Cleanup, connector grease to contacts (Volvo recommends on fuses, why not); see page 10,

  2. Voltage boost with shorter, lenght only 1/4, thick wires gives biggest boost on visibility.

Foglight example at

formatting link
formatting link

Reply to
Wiikinki

I just went back outside with the intention of taking loaded measurements - but I don't see anyway to get my probes anywhere near the contacts once the bulb is in place. The rear of the harness-to-bulb connector has no openings where I can push the probes into try hit the metal contacts... I'm open to taking the measurements, and I'm far from lazy, but I have no idea how to get to the contacts without destroying the harness.

I do plan on changing the bulbs (as recommended). The aim seems fine - based on the light that shines onto my garage.

Again - any first-hand tips of how I am supposed to take a loaded measurement would be appreciated. Now I just want to do it for the sake of doing it. :)

On a related note, was the light-ouput on the 97-99s any better? over the 95/96s They still used the 9004s but had a different headlight assembly with the clear plastic lens.

Cheers, Nirav

Reply to
njmodi

The 97-99s looked better, but the the 95-96s had the better headlight . . .by far. Pure glass with the etchings to defract the light properly. Nissan switched to the much cheaper to manufacture headlights on the

97-99s to save money. They did look better on the car, but they're crap. I would have almost been willing to downgrade my 98 to a 96 headlights, but I know it would also hurt the look.

CD

Reply to
Codifus

I agree the 97-99s look better cosmetically. I wasn't sure if they worked better - but you have cleared that up (no pun intended) ;)

Cheers, Nirav

Reply to
njmodi

"I don't see why any other measurement matters·"

- how about education?

"they would melt or overheat"

- lol. how about calculating the loss wattage per square inch?

"...perhaps getting a little ahead of yourself":

  1. When you do not educate uself,
  2. calculate the loss,
  3. neither have the guts to take lamp off for measurement,
  4. OR do empirical test with thicker shorter wire stump ...

... then rest in your ignorant self-assurance and be content with u oil lamps.

End of story.

Reply to
Wiikinki

... Now I just want to do it for the sake of doing it. :) ...Cheers, Now this sounds better. Empirical test passion instead of denial for denials sake.

More than three ways to tst:

  1. I took the connector off. Placed probe. Pushed connector until light comes on. Recorded measurement.
  2. Take connector off. Install thin bare wire end into the lamp connector pin hole. (See pic, the end of red line, theres a hole.) Push connector until light comes on, locks measurement wire. Measure from the thin wire other end. Record measurement.
  3. Take bulb out. Place it on ol newspaper, right on the lamp. Push connector until light comes on. Measure, but dont short. Record measurement.
  4. ??? just imagination limit...

Whatever the result is, your eyes will decide. That is why find two feet of electrical cord, connect it to an extra std 9004 bulb test connector. Connect wires Ground & HiBeam to it. Remove original connector, install your test connector. Connect wires direct to battery poles.

The end result should be that you have one lamp connected with a thick wire direct to battery, other side is still the skinnythinny long -stock- wiring. Compare. Now your eyes will tell the difference, no need for calculations or measurements. If you dont see any difference, well. What do I say then? Hmm. Buy new Maxima.

There is a huge difference.

formatting link

Reply to
Wiikinki

MotorsForum website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.