maxima stalls & now does not start

my car used to start & idle at approx 2000 rpm. Soon the car would start then suddenly idle low (almost turn off) and then go back to 1500-2000 rpm. Then some days later it would shut down after starting up - too low rpm. Today it started and immediately shut off - now it does not start. It cranks and battery seems fine.

Reply to
OldCarGuy
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What year is it, how many kilometres, these things would help a bit.

By the way, most Maxima's idle at 600 RPM or so, maybe 800 RPM with the AC on a hot day.

How long has your car been idling at 200 RPM?

rtt

Reply to
Richard Tomkins

Its a 95 maxima @ 139,000K. I don't use the ac at all.

The car used to idle properly and then totally shut down after a few minutes. Yesterday - it shut down as soon as the car started. Its at the dealership right now - I have to sell my clothes today!!!! ha ha.

Reply to
OldCarGuy

Well, that ought to help the more knowledgeable people here to pin it down.

After reading all the notes here for quite a while, it could be a number of things.

Theres a cam position sensor that could have gone bad, a Mass Air Flow sensor that's really gummed up, the ECU itself, an idle control valave and I am out of ideas, as I don't have a lot of knowledge in mechanics.

It is most likely not the colis or the injectors, fuel pump, fuel filter, catalytic converter.

rtt

Reply to
Richard Tomkins

Got my car back from the dealership - they change the temperature sensor and also complained about the drive belt. Amazing how the parts total is almost $100 but the labor is $300!!! The check engine light still remains on!! What did they really fix?

Reply to
OldCarGuy

I have to assume they replaced both accessory belts. Retail price for an A/C belt is $51.48, serpentine belt $16.35, and temp sensor is $26.29. So that adds up. It should take about an hour for them to install that stuff, and *maybe* 30min to read the ECU codes and do general diagnosis. So at $80/hr there is $180 of labor not accounted for. Did they do a road test, or something else that would explain a couple of hours of futzing around with it?

I suggest you put the exact info on the receipt so we can figure out what was really done.

Dave

Reply to
David Geesaman

Dave - Here I am going to try the bill (There is a code CP for something - but I guess that the hours worked) A) Tech found coolant senson not reading properly. Checked circuit OK. Replaced coolant temp. sensor. (CP = 2.00) = $178

1-22630-44b20 Engine: COO =$35 B) Oil Change.... (CP=0.5) = $12.45 Filter = $6.00 5 Oil Bulk Oil = $7.45 Washer Solvent = $2.00 C) Tech noted drive belts worn/glazed - Replaced engine drive belts (CP = 1.00) = $89. 11920-31U02 Belt-COMPR = $22 11950-31U00 Belt-PWR = $22

So the total hours = 2+1 = 3 * $89 Parts Amount = $94.25 Labor Amout = $279.45

Reply to
OldCarGuy

Parts Replaced: Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor Accessory Belt Power Steering Belt Oil change

Labor charges look ok for the belts... but 2 hrs for coolant temp sensor is excessive. You don't even have to drain/refill the coolant to do this job - so I'm not sure where the charge stems from.

I would go ask the dealer what the 2 hour labor charge for the ECTS is about... I also wouldn't expect to drive the car home with the CEL still on..

Cheers, Nirav

96 Max GLE, 122k
Reply to
njmodi

I agree. To spend 2-1/2 hours diagnosing a bad ECTS seems odd. Maybe realistic, since I don't know if an ECU code pointed the mechanic right to it, or they were troubleshooting from less obvious symptoms. In any case, the CEL should not be on.

Dave

Reply to
David Geesaman

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