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Popping/Creaking in front suspension

I recently changed my clutch, rebooted my front axles, installed urethane control arm bushings, and replaced my inner tie rods in one job.

About 500mi later I'm getting a popping/creaking only when I accelerate from a stop, and it occurs about 1-2 secs after I start - right about when the clutch fully engages. Sometimes the pop/creak comes from the center of the car around the firewall, other times it comes from the axle areas, both sides. It's not loud - I only hear it with the stereo off, and feel it through my feet a bit.

I've checked all the major bolts/nuts in the wheelwell and control arms and they are tight. Could it be the urethane bushings getting dry and making noise? Or are there any components that tend to vibrate loose if they aren't tightened/retained just right?

Dave

Reply to
David Geesaman
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I want to make this clearer - the noise comes from the level of the floor or bottom of the car. Sometimes it feels to be near the rear center of the engine bay, other times near the left axle, and other times the right axle.

Dave

Reply to
David Geesaman

Maybe those urethane bushings. There's a reason Nissan doesn't use them. Have you tried aggressively bouncing the front of the car?

Reply to
JimV

Yeah, I have, but it doesn't seem related to bumps - I'm wondering if the torque in the front axles on startup causes a different load on the control arms than when the suspension is pushed into motion by a bump.

I did also replace my ball joints - but those are still tight as far as I can tell.

I will try spraying the urethane bushings with PB blaster and see if that stops the noise for a day. I know it will probably leach out the remaining grease, but at least I'll know it's not a more serious problem. Like I said, when the stereo is on I can't really hear it.

Dave

Reply to
David Geesaman

I don't know the answer to your question, but I am going to replace the control arm bushings on my car in the coming weeks. Any tips? Do you have to disconnect the tie rod ends and the strut? I've looked over the procedure in both Haynes and Chilton, and it sounds like you have to go through the steps as if you were replacing the control arm. Is that correct? Also, I've got Energy Suspension bushings, any opinion on these?

TIA

Fil

Reply to
Filipp Stepanov

I also installed the ES bushings. You just need to remove the control arm, which means the base plates, the sway bar links, and ball joint nut. You'll need a ball joint popper (or pickle fork if you're replacing them). I do recommend getting new balljoints as well. Use Autozone rental tools and it's not hard.

Tie rods/steering/suspension parts don't need to be touched, so perhaps you can get away with not needing an alignment.

I'm still not sure what's causing the creaky popping sounds, but I will probably test the bushings by getting PB blaster on them.

Dave

Filipp Stepanov wrote:

Reply to
David Geesaman

Thanks! I have a '97, and I think on that year the balljoints are permanently attached to the control arm.

Reply to
Filipp Stepanov

I also have a 97. The ball joints are not permanently attached - I replaced mine. Remove the snap ring and press out. I got my bushings and balljoints from

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although Ebay could be cheaper.

Dave

Reply to
David Geesaman

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