Yeah, but it works both ways. In part this exposes Saab's bullshit advertising about 'Genuine Saab' parts. I have no problems in using parts from other sources if they are cheaper and can do the same job.
However, if I go to a Saab dealer and pay Saab prices, I expect to get the genuine article.
I picked one up a few weeks ago for my Viggen and I got a Genuine Saab filter but noticed it was a black filter with gold lettering not the standard blue can with white lettering. It did come in a Saab box and it does have Saab painted on it in gold lettering. Perhaps they figured out they need to say Saab on them? I got mine at Internation Saab in Falls Church, VA.
Witch Dr,
Who are you and where do you live in the D.C. area?
I am not far from that dealership
SG
past/present requirements?
99,900,NG900,9-3 and 9-3SS for these new white GM filters?)I'd say the filters were designed to be exceeding the requirements of an engine like that of the 9-3SS, which is overkill for a 99 or 900... Then again I'm not an oil filter engineer for GM ;>
"SG" skrev i en meddelelse news: snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com... On Sat, 24 Dec 2005 00:48:44 +0100
Henrik,
But you have still chosen not to provide us any of your official Saab videos at all.
Why are you holding out on us with your information?
Hasn't had the time to transfer them to the PC - and dunno when I get around to it.
How many metrics are there for oil filters? Flow rate, maximum pressure, screen size (i.e., how large of a particle will it let through,) filter size/threading... it ain't rocket science.
(I've just discovered that K&N filters have an integrated nut, which is nice for everyone without enough clearance for a traditional filter wrench or forty bucks to drop on a chain Vise-Grip. Why don't all oil filters have a nut?)
The 9000 oil filter is accessible from under the car. A nut wouldn't make much difference, just add cost. I use the steel loop to grip the filter. Then I smear some oil on the rubber ring before fitting. Job due over the next few days, if I can get away from the Christmas table. Used oil always ends up in my armpit though.
That's just gross or shall I say "TMI" (Too Much Information) for the rest of us.
SG
I thought it was somewhat humorous. It brought visions of Castrol products in the antiperspirant aisle.
Why do they need a nut? An oil filter is only meant to be hand-tight but of course over time with all the heating/cooling cycles it might get tighter. With the Saab filters, you tighten it up so the gasket is pressed against the mounting, then turn in another 1/4 turn. Maybe it's different for other engine types, but that's how I do the oil filters with my 8V C900 engines.
Craig.
In an ideal world, a nut would not be an absolute necessity, however given the number of times I've spent 30 minutes or more wrestling with a stuck oil filter and had to resort to C clamps, screwdrivers, hammer, etc to get the damn thing unscrewed in the real world I'm all for a nut being there.
In theory, if it's put on 'hand tight' you can take it off again with bare hands... if your hands are free of oil and grease... If a filter is stuck, I usually hammer a screwdriver through it and use that as a lever. Never failed.
And of course with those "quality" dealer Saab service guys out there, they get wrenched on. I had to take mine back to the dealer where they wrenched on the oil filter so hard they had to drive a pin through it to untorque it...and they'd also impacted the oil pan bolt. To make things even better, they tried to shirk responsibility saying I could have done it...Hmm..it'd been 3100 miles since my last change and it was serviced there. I now avoid any Saab service station that works on anything else. I was in S. Florida and took it to a combo Isuzu, Buick, Saab shop. Big freakin mistake.
Yes, "in theory" that would be the case, which is why I stated that in the real world this is often not the case. Some people tighten the filter way too tight, some don't oil the seal, and sometimes it just gets stuck after all the thermal cycles.
The screwdriver approach works sometimes but other times there just isn't enough clearance to do it cleanly, try it on a Volvo 240 Turbo, or for that matter a C900 16V doesn't have much clearance either. One time I tried it the screwdriver simply tore the sheetmetal of the filter casing, dripping dirty oil in my face the whole while.
I only use it on V4s... a messy job, as that filter is horizontal and full of oil....
There's plenty of clearance on my 9-3, but the screwdriver trick still didn't work. I knocked it right through so it stuck out the other side and sill it just tore the metal instead of unscrewing the filter. God knows what the monkey used to tighten it - It was the first oil change I did on the car after buying it.
I was left with two big gashes in the oil filter of my only useable car. I had to walk to the shops and buy a proper tool to get the thing off. Even then I had to extend the handle!
Cheers,
Colin.
The "proper tool" is the key. When you buy it makes all the difference on how you feel about oil changes :-) I have a 245 turbo and a Classic
900 16V turbo. I have no problems with either oil filter - because I have the proper tools. I have to jack up both cars to change the oil. The Volvo requires the removal of the engine shield. The 900 is too low to the ground to get an oil drain pan under the car - it is an SPG. Life is tough, but someone has to drive a Classic 900 SPG :-)"Malt_Hound" skrev i en meddelelse news:ULGdnX5MPM2y-TDenZ2dnUVZ snipped-for-privacy@adelphia.com...
Why? Being that the new filters suppossedly should be better...
Says who?
As it turns out, I found some Purolator filters (known to be among the best around) for half the price of the SAAB branded ones and stocked up on those instead.
"Fred W" skrev i en meddelelse news: snipped-for-privacy@adelphia.com...
Says a Tech at the factory. It's the guy who teaches all Saab-mech's and writes all technical stuff.
Besides, it was developed to try and prevent the sludge problem in the 9-5 engine.
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