I was creeping along in a school zone at 20 miles an hour and a woman pulled out of an apartment complex and ran right into the passenger side of the car.
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she didn't see me. Must be the only stealth 9000CS in existence. Aclear day, perfectly straight street, she's sitting at the bottom of the hillthat I'm coming down at 20 mph. Saab's doors did their job. The electronics all work in the doors (locks,windows) and the inside is tight and waterproof. But the outside sheet metal ispretty torn up. She was driving a Chevy Malibu. Ripped the front bumper andpart of the hood off of that.Anyone have a clue how much this will cost to get fixed? And can it be restoredto the way it was? It's her responsibility -- she was charged and ticketed -- and I've got good insurance. But I'm afraid that they might just give me the value of the car which may not cover repairs. It's a 1995 with 101,000 on it. If they do that, I'm thinking it may be better to take the money and use it to get a 1997 9000, at least as a downpayment. I hate going through all this. First accident I've had in 20 years.
Ouch! Very sorry to hear that. Main thing is you're ok (and the other driver). Cars are replaceable. I know this sounds cruel, but I always think it's important to remember that at times like these.
How much the repair will cost depends on the extent of the damage to the B post (the post that the rear door hinges from) and the front suspension mounting areas.
Replacing panels is relatively cheap, and a good job can be made of mathching the colour. Replacing the B post is quite a big job, and if required is likely to make the repair uneconomical.
The damage to the front suspension/steering could be fairly minor (new rack, wishbone, struts) or major (the subframe section where the wishbone is mounted is bent/damaged). If the suspension damage is severe, I would not consider repairing it, because getting the car to track straight following such a repair is going to be quite difficult. It can be done, but will cost.
So, if we assume that it's just panels and a few suspension components, it might cost around £2000-3000 to repair. If there is significant damage to the B post and subframe/floorpan, it could be as much as £5000. I don't know how these prices will translate to US - I don't think it will be a straight multiplier, because parts prices are quite different over there.
Our estimates are pretty much irrelevant. Find a top quality body shop in your area and see what they say. Look for one the specializes in upper end cars. If you post where you are, someone here may have a suggestion.
I'd be worried. That's a lot of damage. See what the body men say. It needs some time on the frame machine, for sure.
Make sure you get full value. In the US, states vary widely as to what you get for a settlement. See what your agent says about the laws where you are and check the full extent of possibilities. Don't get screwed by the insurance company shuffle. Even your own company just wants to minimize their costs - including "administration. Find out your rights.
But I'm afraid that they might just give me the value of the car which may not cover repairs. It's a 1995 with 101,000 on it. If they do that, I'm thinking it may be better to take the money and use it to get a 1997
9000, at least as a downpayment. I hate going through all this. First accident I've had in 20 years.
Sorry your car got hurt - she was beauty. But like others have said, at least you're OK. Hope you'll find an even better one ;)
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It's hard to do, but it may be worth going to sleep chanting "It's justa car, It's just a car" for a couple of weeks, just incase the damage is too much.
Maybe think about it as a chance to go better, and treat the last one as a learning car. It was good, it did it's job on the road and in the crash. If you have space, maybe you could get the Salvage and use the good bits as a spares car?
Considering the age and "Book" value of the car, the insurance company might total it. The car did its job and protected you. Hopefully the car can be fixed. It is getting harder and harder to find older Saabs in good condition for sale. You can see the cars but they are not for sale. I had to settle for a NG 900 because the Classic 900s are getting hard to find without big rust issues or the owners realize what they have, the Classics are priced higher than the newer NG 900s. I was going to get a 1992 C900, but it was sold in one day for full asking price. I don't know if finding a 9000 without rust is the same.
I'm in Knoxville, TN. The car is driveable. Out of alignment and one headlight is pointed up, but doesn't seem to have any other handling problems. I'm going to have my mechanic here take a look under it on Monday and see what he thinks. I've got a good friend who owns one of the largest body shops in South Georgia. Does great work. I want to drive it down to him and have him do it. He'll keep the price down as much as he can. Will also tell me if it's not worth doing. My insurance agent is also in Georgia. Having a repaired car doesn't bother me. I only get a new car when the old one is so far gone that it gets towed for junk. Part the problem is I really want to stick with the hatchback. I've seen some
1997 9000s in Connecticut that look affordable if I get cash from insurance. Anyone have any experience with Roberti in New York or Robert Motor Cars in Woodbury, CN?
Tennesee. Towards the east of the US, about mid-way north to south.
I know Laura, and I don't think she or anyone else would call you stupid for not knowing where it is. I also think that most or all of us _could_ point out the Netherlands on a map.
If it were me and it sustained that sort of damage to the unibody, I'd search for another car with at least a nice straight body and keep the wrecked one long enough to transfer over the interior and any better mechanical parts. That's a LOT of work though, but I enjoy that sort of thing.
This reply is Saab related. The issue with buying any car which has been through winters in area with snow and salt is rust. My experience with Saabs has been that they will have more exposure to salt because they are driven more, because they handle so well in the snow. Check this out before you buy, unless the price is so low you are willing to accept rust.
One of the hassles of running older cars is the decrepancy over how much the car is worth to you and what the insurance companies offer. To make you whole they should either repair the car at any cost or offer some compensation for your time and trouble of finding a replacement. I suspect that the insurance companies have lobbyists that make sure that things don't work this way.
My significant other just went through this. Her beloved 1995 Mazda Millenia was declared totaled after being hit by a drunken driver. We tried to get either the Kelley Blue book retail value or the Edmund's retail value for the car but the insurance companies have apparently colluded to develop they own so-called Red Book which in our case was a $1000 below even fair condition cars listed by the other reveiwers. It helped a little to complain. They added a couple of hundred to their first offer when we listed all the options on the car and showed receipts for new tires, etc.
After two discourgaging weeks it turns out there was a silver lining. While looking at used Volvos at a Volvo dealership she fell in love with a 1999 Saab 9-5 SE automatic they had. This was a surprise to me because she thinks my 9000CSE drives like a tank (I think this is because she wrestles with the manual transmission). She liked the handling and comfort of the 9-5 better than a Volvo A80. It is a creampuff that we got for a very resonable price. I think there is an advantage in buying used Saabs from a reputable non-Saab dealership. They may have more incentive to get them off their lots.
I glad you were not hurt and hope that things work out as well as they have for us.
Depends on the state. You need to find out your rights/the law in your state by talking to your agent. I don't know of any places where they are required to pay for your time, or to pay more to repair the car than it would cost to replace it. But, there are laws governing what the "replacement" cost is (e.g. dealer list in the actual area for a comparable car vs. avg. retail), regulations on the other costs (many areas require them to pay the sales tax but you typically do have to ask), and regulations on whether you get to pick the shop and have the repairs done with new/old parts and other matters of the actual repair. You need to find out all your rights in your particular area.
By insurance industry standards your car is a "total".
You have got a tough road ahead of you. But armed with the facts you may be able to recoup the maxim amount from insurance to help you get another decent car.
With the trade in value of your vehicle being around $3600 most insurance companies will try and buy you off with a total for around this amount. They do not want to hear that "I want the same type of vehicle, the same condition, etc. etc". That is what the car is worth and they don't care that it is "your baby". Remember, in your case, that retail book value for the car is around $7500 so don't expect to get more than that.
Do your homework and find out what your car is worth and what it is going to cost to replace the car. A good start is
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Do homework on other sites including ebay, your local classified papers etc. to determine the true replacemetn value of your Saab. The more information you have the more money you will get. In fact if you pick out a new vehicle ahead of time you may be able to negotiate a better settlement by telling them just to replace the car with this one. I have seen this done in the classic car arena.
Remeber they only care about what your cars is worth not what it will cost you to replace it.
Following these steps may help you get what you deserve.
Find out who the claims adjuster is representing....your insurance or the offenders insurance. If it is the offenders insurance...listen, take notes, and let him talk...you just listen. Bring a tape recorder. If he starts talking settlement ask if you can record that part of his statement. NEVER record that part of the converstation without his permission (get permission, date, time, name) on the recording.
DO NOT ARGUE WITH THE ADJUSTER. His only responsibility is to determine the cost of repairs. He follows rules and can not change them. Do not commit yourself to a settlement until you have had time to think about it. Do not agree to any of his "options" he is presenting to you. And if he asks you to sign something do not do so until you have had thorough time to read the paper work. (Remember it is still your car until you sign the paperwork).
(Remember that the job of an insurance adjuster is to protect the insurance companies bottom line. They will do all they can to cut costs including trying to low ball you into a settlement).
Make sure you ask for a provided rental. The additional cost of this will help drive up the total cost of the claim and may give you additional negotiating power.
4.If you are not satisfied with your settlement you do have options. Speak to the insurance companies inside people about the settlement. This is usually a waste of time. Pester your agent. This will probably be unsuccessful too as they care more about their relationship with the company than with their client.
Talk to an Attorney. A good sleazy Lawyer can usually scare the crap out of the offenders insurance enough to get them to up the settlement.
Remember with the record amounts of money about to paid out this quarter because of the Hurricane in Florida the insurance companies are going to try and cut costs any way possible.
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