C cab rear end swap.

I used a 78ish Chevy 1/2 pickup (5x5") rearend in my truck. It had a 3:31 gearing and we (Jeff) changed it to a 3:73 pos. Both were fine going down the Interstate. . .But I have a 259 and I think you said that you had a Six in that one if I remember right. Just some info for you and there is a lot of chevy trucks in the junk yards.

I putting a Camaro/Firebird rearend in my 1950, p/u. Looks like a simple swap.By the way, I still have a really sweet running 6 cylinder and overdrive out of the p/u. $500.00 for the pair.Thx.

John, don't trust someone else to tell you exactly what you need. Take the wheels and tires that you plan on using, set them up under the rear fenders, drop the rear of the truck to the level you plan ending up with, move the wheels/tires out to the point you feel sure they will not rub, measure from one axle mounting surface on one wheel to the other, move the wheels/tires in to the point you feel the will not rub and measure, the axle you need is between these two measurments. Jerry

Why a Chevy bolt pattern? If you are keeping the stock front axle, you need a Chevy half-ton bolt pattern, NOT a Chevy car type bolt pattern, so the wheels will fit front-rear. If you plan on swapping in a different front clip, I'd recommend you avoid Chevy axles altogether, as they use those doggone "C" type axles, in which the axle itself is the inner race for the wheel bearing, and the only thing keeping the axle in the housing is a steel "C" clip about the size of a silver dollar (that's about 60 cents short of a buck ).

I had no end of trouble with the "C" type axles on my half-ton Suburban. They just aren't up to the job, IMHO.

Most rodders who plan on running serious horsepower use a 9" Ford axle, and you can get one built to whatever width your heart desires. And the newer 8 3/4" Ford axle is also pretty stout. And changing gear ratios is MUCH easier than on a Chevy (or Stude, for that matter).

If you want power steering and independent front suspension under the front of the truck, look at installing an Aspen-Volare-Diplomat front K-member directly under the Stude frame rails. Basically, one just sets the bare Stude frame rails on top of the K-member, lines everything up, and then weld it in place. Normally no need to cut the frame, unless small clearance notches are needed someplace. I've seen this done on a '51 car; and I see no reason why one couldn't make it work on a truck, too. Since Mopar and Ford share the same bolt pattern, this would be a natural match for the 9" Ford rear axle.

Gord Richmond

That was the plan, I want to keep the factory bolt pattern.

Gord>> In the early planning of the Caddy swap in my 59 truck I'll need to

axle itself

cents short

just aren't

Stude, for that

the truck,

Stude frame

unless small

share the same

Or you can take the stock rear to local 4x4 shop and have them install a ratio more to your liking.

Dennis said I could keep the spider gears from the truck rear and move a car gear set over. Actually, I could have a shop do it.

snipped-for-privacy@earthl>> That was the plan, I want to keep the factory bolt pattern. >> >>

I have a Dana 44 TT car rear with 3.31 gears that had been under a shortbed Champ I parted out. Course it has 4.5 on 5. All they did is put the spring pads out where the truck springs would mount and ad the tabs for the lower end of the truck shocks.

I couldn't tell you. Whatever came in the 1950 P/U.I have pic's if needed.

let em fly :)

look > I couldn't tell you. Whatever came in the 1950 P/U.I have pic's if > needed. >

First of all ..where are you located? And secondly...that email address scares me..

Fine, use pauldriver on mail.com, softhome.net, earthlink.net or gmail.com or try the spamladen snipped-for-privacy@studebakerclub.net

LOL, Man called Tex is afraid to send an email to nobody.

I start whipping out the mystre or l33tm45t3r e-mail accounts, then you can get scared :)

p.d.

Tex wrote: