I meant net savings over time after changing oil more often with dino. I'm paying ~$4.5/qt for mobil 1(when I don't get it on sale) in the 5qt jug. I bought name brand dino for my '73 and it was ~$2.5/qt in a 5qt jug. I'm looking at ~$10-12 savings which would be erased since I'd have one extra oil change per year on dino.
That's true from a 'good enough' point of view.
Maintenance on my 1998 Camry V6 XLE has been regular oil/filter changes (all Mobil 1), radiator drain/refills, auto transmission drain/refills, air filter changes. I have also had to refill the windshield washer a few times, and quite a few tanks of gas.
Repairs would include new pads on front brakes, EGR valve, charcoal canister (replaced free just under the 8 year emissions warranty), replaced a couple of tail light bulbs and high rear brake light bulb, one new battery, and new tires.
I guess the EGR valve is the real "repair" that I paid for.
Maybe I should have qualified that. All the rentals have been Hertz or Avis (mostly Hertz). My company does not use rent-a-wreck. Some of the cars were brand new, almost all less than 3 years old.
That's roughly what the previous owner (a co-worker) of my '99 Jeep had done in 125,000 miles. He did have a front wheel bearing replaced, but never changed any fluids other than the oil (3000 mile intervals on cheap Pennzoil- which tells me that frequent oil changes render expensive oils fairly moot- although I use much better oil than that myself), nor did he ever have the brake pads replaced.
When I got it I changed all the fluids and the brake pads. It wasn't any worse for the neglect, really, and the brake pads even had a little life left. I popped the valve cover just to make sure it wasn't a sludge monster under there, and it was clean as a whistle. Even on the cheapest dino oil from Jiffy Screwb. I'll bet you anything that, barring a wreck, my Jeep is running many years after your current Camry and your next one are both in the junkyard.
So what?
Yeah, I'm Avis Preferred myself and that's all I ever use unless we need a truck, then its Hertz. So what?
Unless you're the first renter (which I have been a few times) then you have no idea what the previous renter did to it. I've had a few low-mileage rentals that I'm pretty sure got "Dukes of Hazzarded" a few times before I got them.
You seem to have this idea that Toyotas are in some way different. News flash... they're just CARS. All brands are pretty darn comparable these days, and have been since the early 90s. And Toyota has had some quality bombs lately that would make GM at its worst look OK .
If you've only replaced the front brake pads you don't have a lot of miles on it or are lucky to only drive on the open interstate. And what? No tires? They've got to be at least dry-rotted by now.
My car's list will look like a lot, but it's over 181K and it's all wear stuff. The only 'non wear' items might be the evap valve and evap sensor and the water pump. Oh and the pinion seal. And I think I may have to replace the thermostat soon (but that is reg maint for some people). But water pumps are standard replacement items for most japanese timing belt equiped cars. I replaced the one in my car probably somewhere around
130K, and timing belts and water pumps on japanese cars get replaced at 60K if they need it or not.
At -35F you would have to be mentally retarded not be able to tell the difference. He said it wasn't about wear it was about starting in cold weather.
-jim
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There is also the little point that *I* can not read those Japanese web pages completely and, how does one know that the product there is the same as the product here?
I heartily disagree. Duct tape will probably hole that small TV on the wall just as well as the bracket. Why would you take the chance.
You need to look at that inside of one. It doesn't work that way and as I mentioned, the cap is filled with epoxy.
Why would that be? They only tested Mobil 1 10-30. Somewhat meaningless to someone using Amsoil, Redline or Royal Purple. You also say that anecdotal evidence in mostly meaningless, however I suggest that if *you* were the one who got a consistent gain in mileage or track times you would find said evidence far more useful.
Since you don't use synthetic oil, how would you know?
See? IDidn't I tell you?
Because we aren't comparing duct tape to a bracket. We are comparing one style of bracket to another style without benefit of the capabilities of either bracket relative to minimum requirements.
It stuck to regular oil changes didn't it? The benefits I look to get from synthetics are 10,000 mile/1 year change intervals. Any decent dino oil can do 6000/6 months. It's not a criticism of their test.
No, I don't use Amsoil and never would. My recommendation of synthetic oil is based on using it for 10 years and using conventional oil for 30 years.
what sort of word is "IDidn't" ? Maybe you shouldn't throw stones mr. glass house.
It's a dirty job, but someone has to do it. Don't they?
I once cut open a used Fram PH2951, and it had metal end caps. I did this because I had dropped the new filter, denting it on the end, and wanted to see if anything inside could have gotten hit.
A statistical analysis of actual data would come close to proof.. I havent seen anything approaching it.
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