Scotty Kilmer's automotive repair & maintenance advice is good for young kids (IMHO) but maybe not for wizened old farts like we are (& like he is).
The reason is that his advice is overly simplified (IMHO) such that Scotty leaves out important detail we old farts know (& I'm sure he knows it too).
Mostly Scotty is in the right direction but he doesn't go into enough detail to tell us much we didn't long ago learn way back in the sixties (IMHO).
Pretty much agree with your opinion. With a turbo, I'd go with synthetic as they are subject to some high RPM.
No matter what you or I think or have experienced, there is always the guy that says "my car runs a lot smoother or Brand Y over Brand X."
I'm curious. If you're going to go to the trouble of changing the oil twice a year, why not change the filter twice a year, as in, doing both at the same time? It seems like only a small increment of extra work and expense.
On Thu, 25 Mar 2021 15:01:50 -0500, Jim Joyce posted for all of us to digest...
How dare you question Arlen?
That's a good question where the answer is that it's totally up to you.
The logic is no different than the logic you use for when to replace your brake rotors or when you replace your tire valves or when you replace your transmission filter or when you replace your tie rod ends (and on and on).
When to replace is up to you.
Why not replace the rotors or drums with every change of pads or shoes? The logic is the rotors/drums last longer than one change of pads/shoes.
Why not replace the tire valves with every rotation or change of tires? The logic is the tire valves can easily last longer than one set of wheels.
But it's totally up to you.
The logic is that the oil filter lasts longer than does one change of oil just as brake rotors often last longer than one change of brake pads.
If you want to change them every time that's completely up to you to replace them even though they're still well within spec when you changed them.
It's totally up to you.
Of course it is up to you. I can see condition and measure wear on rotors when changing pads so it is an easy decision.
Can you see and measure how well the filter is working? Given it is an integral part of the lubrication system, has a cost of $10, and is helping protect a $5000+ engine, I change it every time. Cheap insurance and peace of mind.
It's vestigial from the 1950s when oil and labor were cheap and filters were expensive. No good reason now, certainly not any technical reason. I changed to oil with new filter every 3K miles in the 1970s.
In the motorcycle forums the usual reply is 'Sweet Jesus! Another frigging oil thread!'
I find it much easier to filter him...
I already explained in great detail that it's not at all about money. It's about design and function.
Most people want a simple answer to everything which money is to them. But not everything is a simple dollars to dollars decision like you claimed.
If all you care about is money then knowing that both the oil filter and the oil are cheap you're welcome to throw away both at the same interval which is why I said it's up to you.
But stop saying it's about money when that's only how YOU think. The manufacturers think differently than you think.
For them it's about engineering.
Many manufacturers recommend oil filter intervals different than oil.
Why do you think many manufacturers recommend a filter every 2nd oil change?
If filters were $100 it would make some sense to wait. For 10 bucks, give me a new one.
I explained in patient detail that oil filters don't wear at the same rate. And yet you still make all your decisions based only on dollar bills.
Trust me when I say that I fully & completely understand how you think. Many people are exactly like you are and in fact perhaps most people are.
They don't care to understand the design & engineering of the product. They don't understand why the manufacturer recommends the intervals they do. They don't understand that oil wears differently than do the oil filters.
More to the important point they don't care or even try to understand. It's hard for them to even try to understand not everything is about money.
Like you they make all their decisions in their life based only on money. Money is the only thing they understand because it's easy to understand.
And that's OK. Replacing parts often and well before they need to be replaced works too. You can change your oil filter for any reason and interval you want to.
Oh, I understand but conditions vary too. Short trips in a very cold climate versus highway driving in mild temperatures. Oil should really be tested and not just changed at some magic interval of one size fits all. I can't see the inside of that cartridge filter, nor can I do a flow test. Not just about money too. I'm under the car, filter is right there, two minutes and done. I'm certainly not going with an interval other than a change time.
You don't think manufacturers took all that into account when they often recommended a filter every 2nd oil change under normal driving conditions?
I don't disagree on having your oil sent out after the fact for testing.
I disagree you can't see inside that cartridge filter since teardowns exist. (1) Why do you think it has a pleated filter & which are the best? (2) Why do you think it has an antidrainback valve & which is best? (3) Why do you think it has an overpressure valve & which is best? (4) Why do you think it has a gasket for engine mating & which is best? (5) Why do you think it has many holes around the outside & which are best?
You had not yet mentioned a single decision that wasn't only about money. I mentioned the specifications, OEM recommendations and the tear downs.
Clearly we think differently.
You seem to only care about money and convenience (and that's OK). I very much care about what it is that I'm trying to accomplish.
Most people are like you in that they don't understand what it is they buy. They just replace it without thinking using any interval they feel like. They probably don't even read the owners manual to see what it says.
And that's OK. You can replace your oil filter on any interval you feel like doing so.
But I'm going to base my replacement on understanding what the filter does. And I'm also going to base it on understanding what the manufacturer says. And I'm going to base my replacement on choosing good filters to start with.
Having said that you're welcome to replace yours on any interval you like. But if you ask me how I choose my interval then don't only bring up money.
Its not fail, its about how they age.
Because they did their testing on new engines without a lotm of blowby.
--scott
Even so for anyone to claim oil filters wear at exactly the same rate the oil wears is just proving they don't understand there are oils that are "longer lasting" and there are filters that are "longer lasting" (just as their are oils and filters that are shorter lasting and conditions matter).
They're completely different things (oil & filters) with different specs. And they're made completely differently and they also wear differently.
Every manufacturer has a maintenance table for when to check/change things. In addition, each manufacturer of oil & filters does things differently.
There are a lot of oil specs out there to consider SAE 0W20, 0W30, 0W40, 5W30, 5W40, 10W30, 10W40, 15W50 ACEA A1/B1, A5/B5, A3/B4 A5/B5-10, A5/B5-12 API SN, SN Plus, SN-RC, SM, SL, SP BMW LL-01 Chrysler MS 6395 FIAT 9.55535-H2, FIAT 9.55535-M2, FIAT 9.55535-N2 Ford WSS-M2C153-H, WSS-M2C929-A, WSS-M2C930-A, WSS-M2C945-A, WSS-M2C946-A, WSS-M2C947-A GM-Opel LL B-025 GM 4718M, 6094M, LL-A-025, dexos1 Gen 2, Gen 3 Honda HTO-06 ILSAC GF-5, GF-4, GF-3 MB-Approval 229.5 Porsche A40 Renault RN0700, RN0710 VW 502 00 - 505 00
And there are a lot of oil filter teardowns where I've dremeled open many of my own oil filters & I even used to send out my oil for testing years ago.
If you ask me what I base my oil filter change intervals on I'm going to answer that I base intervals on things other than just money & convenience. (1) I look at filter pleating, surface area, micron spec, edge glue & seam (2) I look at the size and thickness & antidrainback valve material (3) I especially check the type of overpressure valve (some don't exist!) (4) I pick at the mating gasket to see if it tends to easily fall off (5) I check the inlet holes for the number and overall diameter (6) I like to look for the mating threads machined from the outside in (7) I like filter cans that are 20 & 30 thou rather than 15 thousandths (8) I look at the type of oil that I'm putting in and the type of driving
It's fine for him to claim that he only cares about money & convenience. He can change his oil filter on any interval he wants and that's OK with me.
But if he asks me why I follow the manufacturer recommendations then he's going to get more of an answer than just money & convenience specifically because neither is what I use to determine my oil filter change interval.
In that off hand list I forgot to mention what I found the first time I tore apart a $15 Fram filter from AutoZone (which had the worst pleating ever!)
*Shitty cardboard end plates*Far less expensive oil filters have steel end plates and synthetic pleating without visible gaps at the ends and a with a long steel clamp at the seam!
But none of that applies to the filter in my car for the past 5000 miles. Sure, I can buy what seems best but that has nothing to do with the present condition of my car as I change the oil today. May have been great for 4900 miles but will it be good for the next couple of thousand?
I care about making my car last. Even a cheap car is a hefty investment and while I abhor waste, I do believe in proper maintenance. In the time of ownership I will get 10 oil changes or in your case, an extra 5 filters. About $50 extra on a car I spent $50k on. Keeps my warranty and peace of mind.
Yeah, say what you want but you bring up money every time. Seems like you want to save it and that's fine too. My engine has a 100k warranty and even if I don't keep the car that long the next owner gets benefit. Owners manual says change the filter.
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