I need to replace the control arm. Figured I would replace both sides as the bushings are not in that great shape. I found a great package, control arm both bushings, ball joint and all the hardware for only $44 per side.
So my question is, should the front wheels be on car ramps or with the wheels hanging when I unbolt the sway bar. I would think that I would want the wheels loaded, on the floor or the ramps to remove the sway bar, also when I reinstall the swaybar.
I would think that I would want the wheels hanging for removing the control arm.
Am I going in the right direction with my thinking?
The main thing is to have the wheels "level" with each other so you aren't loading up the bar. Other then that it's just a question of what gives you the best access to unbolt things. I just did this on my 99 GT Mustang and simply drove it up on ramps to do the work.
well, he will definitely have to unload the suspension to remove the control arms. I would also recommend soaking the hardware down with penetrating oil before beginning; the front bolt for the control arm goes into a captive nut in the body, which will be fun to replace if the bolt snaps. The rear mount is replaceable if the little stud snaps off (and I've had to do that before) but easier not to barf it up in the first place. Before you start make sure you have the bolts for the ball joint; not all ball joints come with the three bolts and I believe they should be 7mm which is not a size that every hardware store stocks.
If the OP is doing a full suspension rehab, I would recommend replacing the strut bearings as well, they don't last long. If the struts are marginal might as well replace those too; I'd recommend Bilstein or Koni, the Boge are tempting due to price but they don't even last as long as the strut bearings.
thaks for the reply, I think I remember you from the watercooled group years ago.
I just changed the struts and bearings, also the tie rods.
So I understand about the suspension unloaded to remove the control arms?
How about the sway bar that attaches to the control arms? Am thinking I should loosen the sway bar while it is on ramps?
Also the captive nut, how to get penetrating oil back there? Its enclosed isn't it?
well, he will definitely have to unload the suspension to remove the control arms. I would also recommend soaking the hardware down with penetrating oil before beginning; the front bolt for the control arm goes into a captive nut in the body, which will be fun to replace if the bolt snaps. The rear mount is replaceable if the little stud snaps off (and I've had to do that before) but easier not to barf it up in the first place. Before you start make sure you have the bolts for the ball joint; not all ball joints come with the three bolts and I believe they should be 7mm which is not a size that every hardware store stocks.
If the OP is doing a full suspension rehab, I would recommend replacing the strut bearings as well, they don't last long. If the struts are marginal might as well replace those too; I'd recommend Bilstein or Koni, the Boge are tempting due to price but they don't even last as long as the strut bearings.
yes, best you can do with the big bolt is to try to get the penetrating oil to creep down the threads. I *think* but it has been a while since I've been under an A1 that if you are really mega screwed and you know it before you break anything you can cut the floor open from below and peel it back to get access to the bolt, then weld it back up when you're done... I have never had to do that though and I have replaced the control arms on two different cars...
I don't think it really matters about the sway bar but if you have ramps that's probably easiest.
Forgot to mention, you didn't specify if you were using factory style rubber bushings or aftermarket poly. If the latter what I did on my old Scirocco was this - instead of using the "gorilla snot" to lube the bushings, I bought a tube of powdered graphite and put it on the bushings before installing, Then I put them in the control arm and rotated them back and forth a few times, removed them, repeated until the bushings were a uniform pencil-lead color. Unlike the "gorilla snot" which I'd used previously and had started squeaking after a year or so, the graphited bushings were still quiet when I sold the car several years later.
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