Fan only blows when set to high? '90 Celica

See the reply to dario, "Supra 1987 blower only works on medium and high"

Same answer.

probably the low speed fan resistors have burnt out , vent may be a pipe fallen off

I originally had the same problem with the '93 Corolla, i.e. only one fan speed. The resistor did have to be replaced.

Charles of Schaumburg.

Yes, most likely the blower resistors.

Alright... How would I go about repairing this? Would I need to take the vehicle into the shop or is it something I could do at home?

Dave's wrote:

See the recent thread with instructions on how to do this for a Supra. The principle is the same, should take less than half an hour with basic hand tools and a soldering iron.

If you can find and access the resistor pack then it should be easy. Ask a dealer where it is when you ask about price and availability.

most vehicles have the pack in the cool airflow side of the heater, bolted into the side of the trunking.

I could not say where it is on yours but a bit of work with a torch under the bonnet (some cars) or dash (more cars will usually reveal the wiring to the fan, this can be followed to the resistor, then off to the fan switch. mostly the packs are plug in jobs, some cars melt wiring too!! Some can be repaired, as they are poorly made.

mrcheerful

They will want to sell you a new fan cage (has the blower motor, cage and resistor pack)

Like we said, see the thread for the 87 Supra. It's the same repair. You may not have to remove the glove box, however. Very least, you'll have to remove the glove box COVER (three or four screws) and the lower part of the dashboard. The worst part is the angle you'll have to twist into to get to the blower motor.

On the ones I have repaired (about three so far...) all I did was remove the lower part of the blower box, that contains the blower motor, squirrel cage and the resistor pack. It's a pain in the @ss, but not as much as removing the entire air box!

Get a short stubby screwdriver or a ratchet with a philips screwdriver adapter. Anything longer than three inches you'll be using every cuss you know, and even making some new ones up as you go along!

WELL... Thank you, thank you. I read the how-to on how to repair this issue and it seemed rather easy to me. What route should I take? Should I contact a dealship and try to get a new resistor pack?

Also, I just checked to see where the resistor pack is located... I'm LOST. I checked my Chilton's manual but didn't get much help from that either. I removed my glovebox to check and well, I didn't exactly see anything that would clearly define to me where the resistor pack was located. Any further assistance would be great.

Any idea as to how I could re-connect it? I checked under the glovebox and as I stated earlier, there wasn't anything there that I could clearly identifiy to help solve my issue.

I believe on this car the resistor pack is located on a small ckt board located on the flange that holds the blower motor and squirrel cage. You have to be a contorsionist to do this! Like I said, small screw driver, or, IIRC a 10mm small socket, on a 1/4 inch drive ratchet can get in there.

If you can remove the lower part of the dash on the pass side, do so and you will then see the blower assy up where the passenger's right foot would be. Remove the connectors, the vent tube and the three bolts, and then drop out the blower assy. It WON'T come out easily; you'll have to 'argue' with it to get it out. Don't argue too hard cause the squirrel cage may be a little brittle after the years, but it should come out ok.

I replaced mine with the whole assy either from other beaters I have had or with junkyard parts. They are usually about $25 for the whole mess from a Wrecker's, and I think the resistor ckt board is $65 from Toyota. I replaced one in 1997 in a Corolla and drove it until 2003 without a problem. Look at it; you'll be able to tell if it will go the long haul or not! I think I did solder one with some high temp solder, too, and it went until the car broke.

Good luck!

AHHH... Thank you, sir. I visited the Toyota dealship today and received a print-out diagram of the assembly. Unfortunately, the one that they gave me was incorrect (showed the resistor pack being in the front and able to be easily unscrewed, the location that it showed was not correct for my vehicle). The resistor pack is about $71. I'm going to attempt to remove it myself today and if it is possible, I will just solder it.

THANKS.

Hachiroku wrote:

Find someone with an oxy-acetylene or air-acetylene torch and braze it with a silver-bearing brazing alloy - regular tin based solder melts at far too low a temperature.

MAPP might get hot enough at full bore, but propane won't.

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Tomorrow I am planning to take a look at the resistor pack and see if it's something that I can fix my soldering or if I am going to replace the pack. I had a question though that I need a quick lil answer before I attempt it: Since I am going to have to "argue" with the blower assembly a little bit to get it out, will it be just as difficult to get it put back? Or should it be pretty simple and to-the-point?

Any useful resp> > WELL... Thank you, thank you. I read the how-to on how to repair this