Our resident Toyota resident lashed out at me for saying that was the LEAST likely culprit. Because this is coming in snippets as opposed to a full story, I have to work with SOME assumptions. Among them being that with new tires that the rotors did NOT appear discolored or gouged, there was nothing apparent about the pads. Perhaps giving credit where it isn't due - that a competent dynamic balance was done. Next stage would be to have the rotors MIC'd just to be sure they are round in both planes. Look at the spindle closely. If the spindle is clean, have somebody check out the CV joint and shaft.
No not necessarily. What size wheels are on it? The smaller the more even a slight out of round can act up. Usually consistant at certain speeds. A 14" rim is more sensitive than a 16.
Did you replace the calipers? Check the pistons for pitting? Sometimes an improperly installed o-ring on the caliper pistons can cause intermittent problems.
If it's only one wheel, I'd strongly suspect the hose. Second choice would be frozen up mounting hardware causing a single piston caliper not to float freely. A booster, master cylinder, or pushrod adjustment issue would show up on at least two if not all four wheels.
Good point, but that would also imply that the self-adjusting hardware was frozen up on at least one rear wheel. Not impossible, but would imply two simultaneous problems. That said, it might not be a bad idea to check anyway, since the OP has apparently tried all the obvious stuff. ======
Did you see the part where he said he REPLACED the hoses?
From the description it COULD be the caliper, BUT I would look at the CV joint. A bad CV could cause the wheel to build heat. Again it is what is most likely. At this point I'd pull the caliper apart first. Look for contaminants especially by the pistons. You may wish to put kits in both calipers. Make sure it is BALANCED. There is also - I THINK - not being a Toyota expert - a proportioning valve somewhere right/left. If the left side is not doing its job - the right works double time. So you can't ignore the other side. Could be that the left caliper isn't working at all or poorly.
It could be the proportioning valve it could be the master cylinder, and it still can be a CV joint. It is also possible that the new caliper was rebuilt wrong.
On older American cars yes. The Japanese have had much better CV joints than American makes especially 20 years ago. I'd look awfully hard at the LEFT caliper. Something tells me it isn't working right, or your master cylinder is not well. It seems like we are chasing a phantom.
Here is something to consider. You have confined your investigation to the right wheel. I think you need to look at the other side as well. There is a proportioning valve there somewhere. I don't know where it is on the Corolla. It can be bad. Sometimes you need to bleed the brakes several times. It can be contaminants, pesky air bubbles that hide and take several tries to get rid of.
Here is a problem with older cars. They get the laying on of hands all over the place. Some folks who know what they are doing, and sometimes little Billy Shafto at his daddy's lube place. Billy may NOT know the difference between radiator coolant and brake fluid. All he knows is they both go in a car somewhere, so what difference does it make? Sometimes it is carelessness. Some quick lube places use illegals. So - over 15 years who know who all has had their hands on your car? Shadetree mechanics. This isn't easy because it can be so many things. Say a BADLY rebuilt caliper, or two of them. I was in the parts business and we bought REBUILT calipers. You'd be surprised how many were BAD. I'd say we returned at least 20% of them. Same with other rebuilt parts. I am trying to think of any rebuilts we didn't have returns on. On calipers completely missing o-rings, wrong size o-rings, twisted o-rings. Badly pitted pistons.
So you never know what it really is till you find it, and then you tell yourself THERE is where you should have started. UH HUH! Often you are chasing the problem. Put one new part in and another older one fails. You think it's the same problem but it is just transferring down the line. Still, for the fun of it, replace the bearings.
I don't think he's saying the brake are locking up exactly. He can look at TIRE WEAR. He said he could feel some resistance, a flaky CV joint would dissipate horsepower. The point is that CV joints can fail in several ways, not necessarily making loud noises.
KRP, I don't know if replacing both is a good idea. But hte strange part about all this is that I can be driving along just fine, with no drag. Then it will start to drag progressively and get progressively worse. You will notice more and more gas pedal effort needed to move the car. At its worse, the car will not move forward from a stop at idle. But the funny part is, if only one side was locking, wouldn't the car pull to one side? It is not pulling to one side however. But only one wheel is heating up.... strange eh?
I sure would just go and jack up that one wheel and give it a really good shake to verify you don't have a blown wheel bearing.
The last time I blew a wheel bearing I also changed a lot of brake parts trying to fix the 'soft' pedal with no luck.
The bearing was a flat one that didn't show symptoms like a tapered bearing until it was about terminal.
Then the brake started to drag and 'change' when I pumped it like I stated. I finally figured out it was the bearing.
My wheel would track fine after braking for a while from the gyroscope effect, but finally got bad enough to nail down. Well the corner of the caliper finally scored the rotor making it very evident what was up.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 'New' frame in the works for '08. Some Canadian Bush Trip and Build Photos:
Thank you to everyone that has helped me thus far. These symptoms aren't new... but just better described than previously. Please review:
Brake drags occasionally not all the time and the dragging can start without the use of the brake pedal (once i was driving on an empty highway at 3AM for 30 miles, and it just started dragging).
once the drag starts, it gets progressively worse. I'm not sure if the heat causes it to lock up more, or if it just locks up more and causes more heat (Chicken or Egg?) But you can feel that more and more gas pedal effort is needed.
at its worse, there is so much drag that the car will not idle forward from a stop.
drags on local roads OR highways... but on the highway there is enough heat to cause the tire to overheat and vibrate. On local roads this much heat is not built up, but the right front wheel is noticeably hotter. The left one is a normal temperature, although it is warmer than the rear. But i would expect this since the fronts do most of the braking. The drums apply less stopping power, correct?
things replaced thus far: new tires, new rotors, new brake hoses, system was bled and all new brake fluid was put in. None of these have solved it.
Any further insights would be helpful. If any of you guys live in southeastern mass let me know. Maybe you can take a look in person... thanks again for your help thus far.
Could it be that one of your brakelines is near a heat source, and that the heat is causing the fluid to expand and activate on of the front calipers, and the opposing rear caliper or drum? (You might never notice the rear brake if it were a maladjusted drum or suchlike)
Maybe a shield is missing near the exhaust or something like that?
I will add one additional possibility that I personally experienced on an Acura TL. A bad upper ball joint caused ALL the symptoms reported here on that car - hot wheel, apparent warping of the rotor, chattering brakes, all of it.
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