I read an article about a new technology discovered using different tubes in Li-Ion batteries that could supercharge the batteries to 10 times the ammount of time... I wonder if this tech, could one day be used in electric and hybrids...
It would be helpful if you cited the article so that readers would know what you are talking about. ;-)
Is this is the battery you are talking about?
The challenge for using lithium-ion batteries in Hybrid and plug-in vehicles is a shorter life cycle than nickel metal hydride batteries; the heat generated by lithium-ion batteries; cost; and manufacturing capacity. The Toshiba Scib battery appears to address one or two of those factors, but Toyota already has a stake in Panasonic batteries, and it is unlikely to change suppliers this late in their development.
err this one
Fuck hybrid cars. I want AA rechargable batteries that actually produce 1.5 volts, even after being charged and then stored for 3 weeks.
Interesting! If everything in the article and what the developer says is correct, just about everything that uses a battery will enjoy much longer useful life!
Have you measured their voltage after charging? Do they ***REALLY*** produce just over 1.5 like a normal AA battery? I read rave reviews about Panasonic rechargables a couple of years ago, but they turned out to be a farce.
No I didn't measure anything. Should I? I just plug them in and they work as I expected. No more rushing to the store to get new batteries. On what highly sensitive electronic device do you need an exact 1.5V? Your blood pressure monitor? =)
A portable shortwave radio which shuts down below 1.2 volts. The Panasonic rechargables read 1.4 when fully charged.
A Sennheiser wireless musical instrument transmitter reads low battery when it sees 1.3 volts, and starts blinking at 1.1 volts. I don't need that nonsense when I'm halfway through a two hour set on stage.
Neither device behaves this way with Duracell batteries, even when they read the same low voltage as the rechargables. Interesting, and I can't explain it.
No.
You probably would have hated the original type non-hydride nickel- hydrogen cells use in old satellites since they would lose 90% of their charge in 24 hours. But last year, Panasonic and another major battery maker introduced NiMH cells that, while they still put out only about 1.25V, can retain 80% of their initial charge capacity for a year.
Here's some more information about electric car technology:
Well my batteries won't be good for you. I just checked the actual label on them and it read 1.2V 2100 mAh
Bruce can probably provide a correct and credible explanation, but I'll give it a shot...
The device probably gives a warning when it cannot draw sufficient power (watts) from the power source. Since watts = volts times amps, it is possible for the battery to have sufficient voltage but insufficient amperage to provide the wattage needed to operate the device.
Different battery types have different nominal voltages depending on what materials they are made from and in what condition they are. Ni-MH and Ni-Ca rechargeable cells are nominally 1.2 V (may show 1.4 V fresh from charger with no current drawn) I think there are non rechargeable AA Lithium cells with nominal 1.5 V. I also heard that Li-ION rechargeable cells are 3.6 V and expensive, and they may fry your 1.5 V gadget. Non rechargeable alcaline battery cells may start at 1.6 V with no current drawn.
However, what counts more is what voltage the battery gives while the required current is drawn, and how long they hold this voltage. Some batteries (the alcalines) have higher internal resistance, so their voltage drops more with increasing current draw.
Simple battery condition indicators depend on voltage only, but since different batteries have different starting voltage and /or different internal resistance, they will give different indication. Some intelligent battery indicators register both voltage and current, may be even battery temperature, and calculate the capacity based on stored information.
Asbjørn
Speaking of rechargeable batteries, I tend to distrust them and the claims of 1000 recharges, etc.
I've had rather spotty luck with rechargeable devices like drills, weedwhackers, vacuum cleaners and the like...some are fine after years of use, but some stop holding a charge within months and become worthless.
As with rechargeable AA cells, some are fine and keep good performance stats, but others (name brands, too) seem to lose oomph after 30-50 recharge cycles. One item in particular was a washout....a Ryobi drill which was fine for less than a year, and then stopped taking a charge and holding it. And I found that the replacement battery was more costly than the drill had been in the first place.
Any comments?
Yes the BMS (battery management system) makes all the difference in the life of the pack. Most cheap rechargeable devices with NI-CDs don't even have a BMS they will allow deep discharges like continuing to run the device after it starts to slow down or lose power and they have no charge control often the charger is just a single diode in series with the transformer secondary with the only current limiting being from the resistance of the winding itself and no voltage limiting other than the transformer turns ratio. On the other hand a good BMS limits maximum charge current and voltage, has pack temperature sensing, doesn't allow deep discharges, and in some cases even has multiple voltage taps to the cell string to sense charge imbalance. One good example of an excellent BMS is the one that Toyota uses to manage the NIMH battery of the Prius and other THS/HSD vehicles. It has all of the above features with 2 additions, it limits the charge range to between 40 and 80% of full and it has variable speed forced air cooling that is even tied into the climate control system so if for instance it is summer and the A/C is on recirc and the battery starts to get too hot it will switch to outside air to send cool conditioned air through the pack to keep it cool.
In the case of rechargeable AAs etc. I say get the best charger you can afford as a better charger usually means longer battery life and longer run time per charge.
"Daniel Who Wants to Know" wrote in message news:Yltlj.311588$Fc.40257@attbi_s21...
Good! Many thanks for the erudition!
A lot of times a single cell in a battery either shorts or, more likely, reverses in polarity, and because the charger relies on voltage partly to detect full charge, the other cells become overcharged. A shorted cell can't be fixed for long (the short grows back), but reversed cells can be cured by simply charging each one individually. I was recently given an 18V Ryobi pack that was supposely dead, but it contained five cells that had reversed, and after charging each one for a few minutes at 200mA and then charging the whole battery normally, it's worked fine.
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