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89 camry A/C

I recently posted about my washer fluid pump.

1989 Camry 4-cylinder standard transmission. 207,670 miles (and still running fine).

I also am having issues with my A/C. The compressor will not kick in at all when I turn the A/C on inside the cabin. The light turns on on the "A/C" button on the dash, but nothing happens.

I've checked fuses, and looked for these interesting circuit breakers that the service manual mentions, and everything was fine. The onlt other thing I can think to check/replace is the main A/C relay, but NAPA didn't have the correct relay.

Am I barking up the wrong tree here? Do I need to just have something simple like a recharge done, or is there something possibly more involved needing to be done?

Thanks in advance, Jason

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Reply to
Jason
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BUT since it's an 89 I also need the conversion to the new stuff...

Not necessarily true. R-12 is still available, and may work better with your system.

I copied this from another newsgroup, where they also stated for around $15 and an online open book exam, you can obtain the certification to purchase R-12. Again, I'm not the expert (and already have 134a) this is just something I found that seems relevant:

(begin quote) The Toyota Technician Training Manual published by Toyota Motor Co. on Air Conditioning Systems, Course 750 lists several reasons why converting / retrofitting R12 systems to R134a is a major, expensive undertaking (if done properly).

Here are some quotes from the Manual:

  1. "R134a attacks the nitrile butyl rubber found in R12 system hoses."

  1. "R134a requires special carbon-filled iso-butyl rubber parts." (hoses and 0-ring seals used throughout the system)

  2. "The conventional silical gel dessicant used for R12 may break down when exposed to R134a. R134a requires a molecular sieve type dessicant."

  1. "R12 systems use a highly refined mineral oil lubricant. R134a systems use synthetic "PAG" lubricant which can cause swelling or foaming of conventional rubber gaskets and seals used in R12 systems. Be sure to special RBR rubber O-rings during assembly and repairs."

5, "R134a hoses not only have the special RRB rubber, but also have an impermeable inner lining of nylon to reduce seepage of the refrigerant and to prevent moisture entry into the system."

Now even if you spend all the time and money for these special hoses, O-rings, dessicant, etc., you still won't get the cold 37-42 degree F air coming out of your AC vents like you did with R12. You'll get more like 45-55 degree F air, which means the interior of your car will be about

10 degrees warmer on a hot day if you convert to R134a. (end quote)

The upshot of all this was that you can just stay with R-12 if that was the factory fill for your system.

Also, my power windows seem to be painfully slow at lifting the windows...

Try lubricating the window tracks on the sides with silicone spray or Tri-flow.

Reply to
Daniel M. Dreifus

Start by checking to see if the compressor is getting power. Fuses can look good, Even though the AC switch lights dont rule it out. Loose wire bad connection,

Reply to
m Ransley

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