Clutch Cable

You must unbolt the sleeve (Bowden tube) and straighten it out. Slide the cable thru and then re-attach the sleeve.

Speedy Jim

Speedy Jim,

The only VW I have worked on is my Type 3, so I don't know how much the clutch systems differ between models. (You don't "unbolt" the Bowden tube, you pull it out from the retaining hole on each end.) That Bowden tube is flexible but very, very stiff and resistant to removal once the tranny is bolted in. You have to withdraw the Bowden tube about an inch to clear it from the transmission end of its receptacle, and I found out how difficult it is to get it back in. Ideally, you want to remove the Bowden tube only when you have taken out the tranny and are re-installing it, but in the case of replacing a broken cable, removing the tranny to relieve tension on the Bowden tube would be more trouble than it is worth.

If the cable is almost all of the way through the Bowden tube but won't go any farther, then it is caught on the lip. You should be able to stick a thin screwdriver in the end of the Bowden tube to free the cable past the lip. If the cable is caught on the front end of the Bowden tube (the body connection end) then withdrawing the Bowden tube enough to be able to see the cable end will allow you to jiggle the cable so you can pull it through a fraction more before putting the Bowden tube back in place.

Another trick that might work is to twist (rotate) the cable at the pedal cluster end while pushing it into the guide tube, kind of like using an auger to unclog a drain; that might free it past the lip. Also, having an extra pair of hands usually helps.

Thank you to everyone for thier help!

It was the bowden tube, which I just pulled down and off. I was also doing this project by myself and I was having a hard time getting the loop on the clutch cable to stay on the clutch pedal arm (in the pedal assembly) so I used a simple twisty tie from a bread bag and twisty tied the clutch cable to the pedal arm while the pedal assembly was unbolted and out and this worked.

Did you remember to coat a liberal amount of multi-purpose grease on the cable/pedal hook and eye? If you don't then the two parts will wear each other out -- like in less than two years. I went a step further and put a small plastic bag, like 2"X2", over them to help keep the grease in place. It was one of those small parts bags that you can reseal. Doing that will give you peace of mind.

I can't tell you how many tunnel mats I have pulled up, to find an access hole opposite the clutch hook mechanism, it makes getting the cable started in the tube, and held in place, a little easier. However, you can also use twisty-ties (as the above poster said and did) or a zip-tie.. the first time you stomp on the clutch pedal, the zip tie breaks and just lays there in the bottom of the tunnel.

You can also use painter's masking tape or a rubber band. Both give and deteriorate and fall off within a short period of time.

I second the un-"bolting" . it's the fitting at the rear end of the bowden tube. two nuts. and make sure there's grease inside the tube. It wears a lot where the bend is. I carry a spare cable. tho, it have gotten good at driving w/o a clutch cable. The method is in the "How to Keep your VW alive" book, by John Muir.

I erred apparently in referring to "unbolting". Type 1 boxes (some/most) had the rear end of the Bowden inserted into a recess cast into the sidecover.

some had a bracket: What often happens: Late Bus boxes did have a 2-bolt bracket which was easy to remove. Speedy Jim

Yup when the cast-in ear breaks off, you can grind the remains down some and use the bolt on, stamped steel 2-bolt mount. Done it.