Help, oil all over the place today

Fill it up again. Run engine and take the filler cap off. Hold palm of hand (lightly) over the opening at idle. Normally, you will just feel a slight "flutter". If it tries to blow your hand off, there is a crankcase pressure problem.

It does not sound like oil getting past the crank at the pulley end.

Drive for a few miles and take a hard look at the engine to try and find the exact origin of the leak.

Speedy Jim

Hi Jim, thanks for the reply. I tried that and it seemed normal.. just a very light pulsing even when reving the engine. Just replaced the air cleaner and picked up some brake cleaner and oil... will spray it down when it cools off and drive for 10-15 miles and check again for the culprit.

AND.......

Did you find the leak?

Hi, i spent all weekend working on the bus. Turns out the P.O. installed a sand seal pully (aluminum empi). I pulled it and checked the seal and found it ok, but hard. I replaced the seal with a new one. I also found that one stud was pulled from the oil pump cover, but it was sunday and I was out of time so there was nothing i could do about that but make sure the other 3 were tight and hope it didn't leak.

So... result? Leak fixed. No more oil in the engine compartment. It was definately the sand seal gone bad.

While I was buying the sand seal I asked the mechanics at the shop (fisher buggies) how they keep the valve covers from leaking (mine have always leaked no matter what i try). They told me they use black (non-curing) permatex (form-a-gasket) on everything. They said they never use silicone because it's hard to get off and it become clogged in various parts of the engine,etc. The black stuff just stays sticky and can be wiped off easily. Now these guys build a lot of engines and I believe wat they say.

Well, I degreased every piece of tin and exhaust work, replaced exhaust gaskets (had a leak), adjusted my valves, and put it all back together. I used the black muddy looking stuff on both sides of the gasket valve cover... and after a 50 mile drive at 70mph, no a single drip of oil on my degreased J tubes. Wow! I don't care if it "shouldnt" leak without it...I'm using it from now on. It rocks. It makes up for the 10 years worth of little nicks on the head from various people gapping the valves. The environment will thank me for keeping that quart of oil per week in the engine where it belongs.

thanks for the help

-tom

Forgot to mention....

Had trouble getting the pulley nut off... put a socket on it and wedged the wrench tight against the battery tray (on the right). Removed dist cap and bumped the engine... came off easily. I highly recommend trying this! But do it carefully.

I found that info in this group... what a great tip.

congrats on getting a leakfree engine and thanks for the tip on what to use on the VCs. "They told me they use black (non-curing) permatex (form-a-gasket) on everything"

OK now how did you tighten that rear crank bolt, or is yours a nut?? I usually use the generator pulley and belt to help keep things from moving much if the engine is still installed.

Make sure that the crankcase is not creating too much pressure too!

Yes, bolt... I slipped :)

I put it in 4th, locked and locked the brake, and put a wedge under the tires..

Still no drips on the exhaust. I like the permatex. Noticed my oil cooler may be leaking a little bit... going to permatex that too.

If the cooler is leaking, change the rubber nipple.

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