Mechanic says my bus makes no sense: help

If you have that intake manifold type, then you have hope. It can be made to work reasonably well. Just forget about using the vacuum signal, the fine tuning of that requires a lot of work, and possibly mods to the carb and some select secret tricks of the trade I'm not about to reveal ;)

You would get better throttle response from the Kadron kit, and better mileage assuming you don't have an insanely heavy foot.

You are looking for an economical solution.. that to me sounds like "use what you have and see what you can get out of them first".

I used centermounted 40mm duals for years in smaller dispolacement engines (1700 and down) and I just accepted the less than perfect low end. Had them tuned by race pros on several occasions, never got them to work "just right" at low rpms. But very close :) Takes patience and tweaking of the carbs and distributor. I had/have a dual advance distributor with adjustable vacuum mechanism and well the centrifugal advance system always was adjustable from the get go. (if you knew what to do). Trial and error, like there was no tomorrow. Hehe

I'd like to get my hands on your engine... lol.. this is interesting..

Jan

Reply to
Jan Andersson
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On Mon, 27 Oct 2003 14:15:05 -0500, "Tim Rogers" shared the following:

*clears throat loudly*

-- Travis

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meek shall inherit the earth. After I'm finished with it.:wq!

Reply to
travis

Hi again Mike.Re;Option 3.I bet if you asked nice,the good folks on this group could swap you the left over Weber for a stock type set up(manifold with pre-heat& a PICT34).Worth a try.Steve

Reply to
Ilambert

..............The description in your link to Aircooled.Net specifically recommends the single IDF system for offroading. For street use, it's widely known to be a pain in the butt. There's a regular here named Joey(aka Chris Perdue) who has first hand experience with running a single IDF and he strongly recommends against using it unless it's for some serious offroading in a baja. If I had your bus and was on a limited budget, I'd get the Kadrons and I'd get someone who's experienced with them to do the tuning & re-jetting if neccessary. There are some who don't like the Kadrons because they're not quite as nice as the ICTs but they do have a good reputation and they cost less.

Reply to
Tim Rogers

I gather, though, that I'd have to drop the engine to wrestle those things off and on. Need some tools, too . . . let's see . . . I have a soldering iron, some needle-nose pliers, a desoldering station, various screwdrivers and nutdrivers, a few voltmeters, a pretty fast digital storage oscilloscope . . . .

Reply to
Mike Rocket J. Squirrel Elliot

...option 5

... neither I nor anyone on here that I know of currently has any experience with this kit...it is a relatively new development, but it looks good on paper and the price is decent. It may be the perfect solution for you. Dual carbs with chokes. They won't flow enough for a big engine....but with as mild a cam as you have you won't be seeing any high rpms, and these might just work very very well.

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..otherwise I vote kadrons...tried and true. =-)

...as far as your centermount carb goes throw it on the samba classified ads as well as the classifieds at the shop talk forumn, and the ads at teh dune buggy trader board. I'd start at $150 for it...if it doesn't sell you can consider dropping to $100....but you should be able to get the $150. Which is a nice offset against the cost opf a better carb setup for your application.

...Gareth

Reply to
Gary Tateosian

when i was active at building engines i learned one thing very quickly NO stock vw carb or carb made for the 1600 will work on the 1776 correctly. jetting is almost impossible to get correct. however it is the one application that i recommend the weber progressive for when the grind is 110(mild). i found that you could still use a vacuum advance dizzy but you had to set it for that engine and that took a scope. the

009 worked very well. the s>
Reply to
jimt

But on a type-1 there is no need to drop the engine to remove / replace the carb(s).

It is necessary to remove dual carbs (Kadrons at least) if you WANT to drop the engine.

Max

Reply to
Max Welton

Hmm. I've been reading that centerpull throttles can be troublesome due to engine expansion. But the price is indeed a good one.

So many decisions . . .

Darn good point. I'll do just that.

Reply to
Mike Rocket J. Squirrel Elliot

On Mon, 27 Oct 2003 15:21:55 -0500, "Tim Rogers" ran around screaming and yelling:

me?...hehe....i do have experience with the progressive webber and the single dellorto setups....they suck..kinda....i ran a dellorto 45drla centermount on my 1835 for years...it took alot of work and alot of time to get it jetted and adjusted "good enough"...for winter driving i had to fabricate a "hotbox" to even make it drivable due to carb icing(this was using the low profile "big" intake with preheater from cbperformance)...i am in the begining stages of a new engine build right now....will i ever run a single twinbarrel carb again? hard to tell, but probably not....especially for the street...they work well if they are wide open....but not as good for average around town driving...am i going to use a centermount on my engine i am building now...no way....dual 48's baby...woot woot... J

Reply to
Joey Tribiani

On Mon, 27 Oct 2003 20:03:15 -0700, Max Welton ran around screaming and yelling:

Pssst...max....look up at the subject...hehe J

Reply to
Joey Tribiani

Ack!

Disregard eveything since "good morning".

Max

Reply to
Max Welton

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