New Fuel Line?

I am not positive on this, but isn't that line welded (or at least fastened) to the inside of the tunnel?

Remco

I had the same issue.

I cut the old line in several places and wiggled and pulled until I had it all out.

I then bought some 6.5mm ID plastic petrol pipe.

Its a thick wall pipe and with a bit of effort I routed it throgh the hole in the rear fork, throught the tunnel and out the hole in the frame head.

I made sure it wasn't fouling anything, and cable tied it in place where I could reach.

I bought 4 metres of pipe but thats at least one too many.

Would be interested to hear expert comment on this.

Tony

No one carries it because it almost never goes bad. Is there a reason that you want to replace yours? Did the gas tank sit full of water for

25 years until that pipe rusted thru?

Yes

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----------------------------------------------- Jim Adney snipped-for-privacy@vwtype3.org Madison, WI 53711 USA

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Thanks for the input.

I don't have it torn down enough to see if it's attached inside the tunnel.

The tank sat about half full of gas, but I don't have reason to think the line is rusted thru. If it isn't susceptible to go bad, then I may as well put it back together and wait for it to go bad rather than go thru a bunch of hassle.

Or, since I have the interior all out, I could just run a new steel line alongside the new brake line I'm putting in; that too, is being replaced just because it seems like for a few bucks and a couple of hours, I can have all new (and clean) parts in the system.

6mm steel line is available from Wolfsburg West, although the last time I needed some it wasn't listed in the online catalog. They did have it, though. The line passes through several brackets inside the tunnel, which means that 1/4" won't work if you plan on putting it back where it belongs.

The parts of the line that are most vulnerable to rust are near the ends, where they run though the rubber grommets at each end of the tunnel. Moisture gets trapped under the rubber. If you're doing a body-off restoration, and there is any doubt in your mind as to the integrity of the line, it is much easier to get at now rather than later. If you do replace the line, it is a good idea to paint the ends to slow down future rust.

Al Adams

Is there a reason not to use some kind of line that will not rust? The fuel line isn't under pressure after all, well not much. I'd just make sure to use some kind of stress reliefs where the line passes places that could cause wear and tear regardless of what I used to replace it.

Bob Hoover makes reference in his writings to a friend using stainless steel. I tried to find 6mm stainless when I replaced the line in my '68 without success. I've heard copper mentioned as a poor choice, I think due to metal fatigue/breakage issues.

Al Adams

...........That's precisely why no automobile manufacturer uses copper fuel line.

I'd leave it alone. You're likely to never have any problem with it.

The long center brake lines often rust out, mainly because it runs just under where your wet muddy right foot goes. That's a good thing to replace.

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----------------------------------------------- Jim Adney snipped-for-privacy@vwtype3.org Madison, WI 53711 USA

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As someone who thought that leaving the original line alone (when doing a body-off restoration) was a good idea, I'm here to tell you that having to do it later, after things were back together, was a major PIA. As I mentioned in a previous post, the metal corrodes under the rubber grommets, and snapped when I accidentally bumped the end where it exits the tunnel.

If you're considering running a new line through the passenger compartment, rather than through the tunnel, one of the Bentley manuals (can't remember which one) lists a preceedure for running the line on the passenger side of the tunnel rather than the driver side.

Al Adams

Here's a site of a guy that has done it. Maybe email him to get the full scoop on it:

Remco