On The Disagreeable Subject of Rust Bubbles

Mar 29, 2005 7 Replies

The Wonderbus is many things. It is well-running and fun to drive. It elicits waves from other bay window drivers. It provides servicing opportunities that even I can enjoy with my meager skills. One thing is is not, however, is painted well. From a distance it looks great: white over sky blue. But up close . . . oh my, look at those rust bubbles. They are not getting any better, they are looking uglier and uglier. In a few places there are now orange streaks below them. In many places the rubber around the windows bulges ominously and visual inspection reveals secret colonies of rust mollusks growing in the darkness.



Something must be done. But I do not, nor wish to, possess a paint shop. I expect that we are talking about handing the bus over to local "professionals" (chimpanzees) where everything is stripped, including window frames on the side that appear to be made mostly of rust, existing rust removed, Bondo applied where needed, then primering, painting, new window frame parts installed as needed . . . a showroom finish results along with a considerably lightened wallet.



Do I understand the drill well enough?


On Tue, 29 Mar 2005 06:46:10 -0800, "Mike Rocket J. Squirrel Elliott" scribbled this interesting note:

Perfectly.

Well done, that lightened wallet might just be empty. It is possible to do much of the prep work yourself and save some money without buying a complete paint shop. Most of the actual work involved in painting a car is simple elbow grease. You seem to have a good supply of that. There have been long discussions here regarding everything involved in painting a car, so read up. It really isn't all that hard. Just like anything else, you simply have to pay attention to the details!

Good Luck!

-- John Willis (Remove the Primes before e-mailing me)

Rust is extremely difficult to arrest and keep from coming back. Bondo is good for maybe 18 months if the rust is thru to the other side. Might be time to buy an air compressor and couple hundred pound of sand and start sand blasting the rusted areas. The real pros then treat the metal with metal conditioner (Phosphoric acid solution) and then lead the rusted out are or weld in a new steel panel. You are looking at big $ to have it done correctly.

That is disappointing news.

As I picture it, when you have finished working on a rust bubble that started out, say, the size of a 25-cent piece, you end up with an area the size of a hockey puck that is either primer gray or a failed attempt to match the surrounding color. Either way it looks like a patch. Better, I guess, than an oozing rust bubble . . . but still not pretty.

Always wise words.

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