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Ping Speedy

Speedy Jim (or anyone with a spare starter sitting around):

Does anyone know the typical current draw of starter motor Terminal 50? Or, lacking that, the typical DC resistance between Terminal 50 and the body of the starter (ground)?

The Wonderbus has a 15A fuse inline with Terminal 50 on the starter. This is the terminal that the ignition switch applies +12 to when you want the starter to go 'round and 'round. When the ignition key just caused my aftermarket relay to "click" without accompanying starter action, I inspected the fuse and found it blown. Thus no +12 on Terminal

50, thus no starter action. I popped in another fuse (a 30A one on hand) and the starter now operates.

I reckon either 15 amps is too close to the typical current draw, or Something More Evil occurred to pop the fuse.

Reply to
Mike Rocket J. Squirrel Elliot
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The starter solenoid draws ~30 Amps at initial pull-in. That's one reason that VW never put a fuse in there. If you feel you *must* have OC protection, consider using a big automotive-style circuit breaker.

Speedy Jim

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Reply to
Speedy Jim

30A? Well, that goes a long way toward explaining why the fuse popped! Thanks, Jim! Where'd you find the spec?
Reply to
Mike Rocket J. Squirrel Elliot

If you want over-current protection, you might see if you can get one of those newfangled fusible links in the 30-50 amp range. Probably survive better than a straight fuse. The fusible link off my battery is 12 years old.

Charles of Kankakee

Reply to
Charles Fregeau

Oh, I have my sources , but I think John Henry has a section on the starter too:

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Speedy Jim

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Reply to
Speedy Jim

Thanx, Chas. I don't feel any need for overcurrent protection in that line. The fuseholder came with the relay and I just sort of installed it. It's clearly not necessary. I'll stick a "penny" in the fuseholder or chop it out altogether the next time I'm under the Wonderbus.

Reply to
Mike Rocket J. Squirrel Elliot

Aw heck! Just install a knife-switch on the dash. Okay, then just a robust industrial button. We don need no steekin fuse!

Reply to
jjs

Or you can try the old "add a relay" trick to lessen the load on your switch. ~ Paul aka "Tha Driver"

Giggle Cream - it makes dessert *funny*!

Reply to
ThaDriver

We have ways to make you talk! Everyone hold him down while I make him look at this picture of Michael Jackson naked!

Reply to
Mike Rocket J. Squirrel Elliot

Why depend on a damn wimpy fuse? If your car needs 100 amps, give it up! The wires supplying it will let you know by turning red or setting something nearby on fire. No bright red wires, no fire, no problem!

jjs wrote:

Reply to
Everbody

Or use #2 cable. It can't burn. Works for me.

Reply to
jjs

I already have one. That wasn't the point of the post -- the switch had not failed, nor the relay, but a fuse inline with the bendix had popped. Knowing the typical current draw of the solenoid (30A @ pull-in, thanks Rapid James) provided a darn good reason why the 15A fuse had popped. The thread then forked into to a discussion about fusing high current lines and other High Thoughts. Further contemplation (along with barbs from helpful RAMVA-ites) has convinced me that the fuse is probably superfluous anyway, though the argument can be made that EVERY wire on an old vehicle like this should be fused.

Reply to
Mike Rocket J. Squirrel Elliot

You're SICK!...............Aow............Maaaaan!

That is Truely Sick!!!

Run, Quick James, Run!

Remove "YOURPANTIES" to reply

MUADIB®

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one small step for man,..... One giant leap for attorneys.

Reply to
MUADIB®

Eww. Gross. An old white woman.

Charles of Kankakee N5HSR/9

Reply to
Charles Fregeau

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