por15 usage?

I think sandblasting down to bare metal and degreasing will work. You can let a little rust build up if you like to give it more bite. ;-) Wire brushing BY HAND (not by machine) can work also. I think machine wire brushing will polish the surface and that is not what you really want to do before applying this paint. I believe it is best to prime area then while it is still tacky apply your finish coat.

And of course there are more do's and don'ts with this product.

later, dave Reminder........ Before you criticize someone, you should walk a mile in their shoes. That way, when you criticize them, you are a mile away from them, and you have their shoes. Frieda Norris

So, to prepare the pan

1. weld in new pans
2. sandblast the new pans and chassis parts like the tunnel, top and bottom.
3. marine clean
4. metal ready
5. black por15, two coats by brush.

does that sound like the best way to do this? Should I put any further paint on the top or bottom? Will this procedure absolutely prevent rust in the future?

..................If you don't have any experience sandblasting something as large as that, I'd take it to a commercial sand & media blasting business. If you have a commercial powder coating buisness in your area, they'll be able to point you toward a good sand blasting outfit. When you're done, that POR15 will last a long long time. I prefer to use something else that's easier and safer to apply like this stuff:

Tim, Sand blasting after it's all together will give the best surface for adhesion. That's what I would do. I'm not convinced with the marine clean, you can probably get enough clean with hot soapy water, but it's the "recommended" method. Metal ready is just phosphoric acid to bite the metal a little more. I think that it also neutralizes any rust too. Make sure that you keep the entire metal surfaces WET for the full

20 minutes. If it gets dry, it's not working. You will probably use at least two of the spray bottles. (NAPA sells the same stuff under the name Triple Etch) After 20 minutes make sure you wash the entire surface with hot soapy water again, as metal ready leaves a film that is not good to paint over. Make sure the water is as hot as you can stand so the metal dries as fast as possible. Use a stiff bristle brush and scrub! Blow off the surface with compressed air and you'll see how the metal ready gives a coppery-yellow tint to some of the metal. Then, you can either spray, or brush-on the POR-15. If you spray, even outside, WEAR A RESPIRATOR! My neighbor got really sick spraying POR-15 on a Camaro sub-frame outside without a respirator.

Will it prevent rust forever? I used it on a jeep frame four years ago, and it still looks really good. I think it's probably the best thing you could do for your floorpans, but forever is a long time. You won't have to worry about the POR fading on the floorpans. Any POR that is exposed to direct sunlight WILL fade. I have seen it happen...

Go for it! I think you'll be really happy with the results!

Tom

Tim Rogers wrote:

..................I've gotten respiratory problems from brushing it on inside my garage without adequate ventilation during the winter........I live in upstate NY. The isocyanate compound that causes it to harden is VERY TOXIC! Your friend with the camaro may have caused permanent damage to his lungs........it can happen. I've given up on using it for this reason along with the fact that it doesn't cure properly when temps are lower than about

65 deg F. Some of you guys ought to try a pint of Zero-Rust on something unimportant like a trailer hitch or something. It's great stuff..........I promise that you'll be favorably impressed!

Hiya All,

Just been lurking through this thread and I thought I'd chime in with something I consider important.............. Tim is right on with his warning about a respirator. In point of fact if you are thinking of using POR 15 make sure you are completely covered. At the heart of the formula for POR 15 is an isocyante; a rather vicious cancer causer. POR 15 is great stuff but it is also inherently dangerous in its liquid form. Take ALL precautions when using this stuff. Show it some healthy respect and you'll be around to enjoy the end results.

I use lots of POR, I agree with Dave, but I would not use the black I would use the silver, it is much tougher. Just follow their instructions and when it is almost try then use a top coat of a black paint. A polyurethane works great but the POR cannot be totally dry or the top coat will not stick.

Great POR trick I use. Get baby food jars and what ever is left pour it into the jars. This way you have a couple of ounces whenever you need it. Or else you will waste what is left. Also when you fill the jars turn them over on their tops so for sure no air will come in.

Wear gloves and eye protection the stuff is real mean.

Joe

Like the stuff they're trying to coat the hull with on the 'enterprise' tv show? The stuff that makes T'Pol all psycho.

Sorry.. couldn't help it :)

I PORed my new floor pans before installing them, whenI do next time I'll scuff them up real good with some sandpaper so the PORhas somthing to grab on to. On a smooth finish it seems to have a tendancy to peel off if somthing scratches it. On your tunnel I'ld just give it a lick and a promise with some coarse sand paper or awire brush. POR stands for"Paint On Rust", it is a rust stabilizer and it works very well for that. Of course I'm not a VW restoration guy, I'm just interested in keeping them on the roadin running condition.

Dick Steflik B> I want to paint some new pans on my beetle so that they will never

You could do what the instructions say and use POR's own etching primer before applying the actual POR coat..

Jan

Dick Steflik wrote:

That's pretty unique; hmmm , follow the instructions (could this possibly be anywhere near as much fun?).

Dick Steflik

Jan Anderss> You could do what the instructions say and use POR's own etching primer