Type 1 Hydraulic lifter setup

Maybe a VW type 4 manual describes the procedure?

snipped-for-privacy@rochester.rr.com wrote in this friggin' newsgroup:

If you are concerned about lifters not pumping up, set all of your valves to .004. It will be a clattery nightmare. Run the engine warm for a couple of days. You are guaranteed two things here. One is that no valve is going to be stuck open accidentally. The other is you will have your lifter pistons getting a work-out and bleeding any remaining air out. Day three, run engine until warm, but not hot. Yank valve covers and adjust valves to 1/2 turn past 0 lash. Look carefully! You want to see the valve go down during this 1/2 turn, it is subtle but look. If, instead, the pushrod goes down, reset that valve to .004 and make a note of which valve it is, you'll be doing this again in a couple of days for whichever valves had pushrods go down. Hopefully, all lifters were rock hard and you got your 1/2 turn. Valve covers on, and on your quiet way. Colin

That is the craziest thing I ever read.

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Agree. The only thing that method guarantees is a trashed engine.

With the lifter on the heel of the cam lobe, set lash to zero then add 1/2 a turn to pre-load the lifter. Wear in the valve train or lifter may require additional pre-loading but should not exceed 1-1/2 turn total.

-Bob Hoover

Damn, I better get my source out here.

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So does killing flys with a sledgehammer.

Juicers have been used on small-displacement air-cooled engines since the late

-Bob Hoover

PS - Lycoming & Continental hydraulic cam followers also lay on their sides.