A little 'thank you' and some more advice please...

About 18 months ago I posted a cry for help to this newsgroup. Father-in-law wanted to resurrect a SIII 109 Safari that had been stuck in a barn for 10 years not moving and I hadn't a clue what I was doing. Many replies followed with advice on first steps including one particularly long thread on what happens to fuel left in tank after a long time. Lee D I think?

Anyway, 6 week-ends, several orders from Paddocks and a lot of cursing later it passed MOT just before Christmas. Father-in-law incredibly happy, brownie points all round. So thank you to everyone who replied with advice. Even the heater works well!

Having been running around for a few hundred miles it has now started to show some small oil leaks from rear of engine and there is a distressing smell of fuel when parked up.

The nett effect of being in the barn seems to be that all metal is in fantastic condition, chassis sound, body work fine etc. but that anything rubber has dried-up, cracked and is now failing.

I know that I need to start replacing all the rubber bits but where do I start? Do I fix faults as they occur or are there some important preventative jobs I should be doing straight away?

Dan.

Reply to
Dan Burdge
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"Dan Burdge" schreef in bericht news:csk60m$it8$ snipped-for-privacy@hercules.btinternet.com

There are some pretty nice people on this group indeed.

The heater works? You must have mixed up some tubes then ;-)

Don't worry, oil leaks are factory spec. On the contrary; if it stops leaking oil, then you're in trouble.

Landies are smelly bits of machinery, but fuel is a bit hazardous.

Err... the fuel hoses?

Reply to
aghasee

I'd be inclines to replace bits as necessary - there is an awful lot of rubber bits. But the smell of fuel suggests a close look at the hoses involves in fuel supply would be a good idea (Filler & breather hoses, fuel supply hoses). Also look at the fuel pump and all the engine hoses - radiator, heater, engine breathers, diaphragm in the PCV and air cleaner to carburetter. On the body, the door seals and the rubber between e.g. windscreen and bulkhead and roof should be checked for leaks before rust gets a hold and replaced as necessary. It is very difficult to completely leakproof a Series Landrover, but you should try and minimise the amount of water that gets on to and accumulates on ungalvanised steel, especially the bulkhead. JD

Reply to
JD

MOT should have checked all brake pipes, including the flexibles, but if I was worrying about perished rubber bits, thats where I would start.

David

Reply to
rads

It is very difficult to completely leakproof a

When it rains heavily, my S3 gushes in water through the bulkhead. I was thinking of taking a transparent sealing gun to it, but I'm not exactly sure where the water is acutally coming in....any ideas?

Paul

Reply to
Pacman

Hard to say without looking at it. But I would be wary of sealing it without understanding where the water is getting in - you might be just making sure it stays in the bulkhead to promote rust. The upper bulkhead is two layers, to help it rust, and the aim is to stop water getting into the bulkhead, not stop it getting out into the cabin. Favourite spots are the seal along the base of the windscreen, the vents and the windscrean hinges, plus, of course the door seals. But there are other places as well! JD

Reply to
JD

Holy sh*t, our LR90 2.5TD does not leak at all!? Are we doing smth. wrong? *g*

regards - Ralph

Reply to
Ralph A. Schmid, DK5RAS

no, it's just ran out of oil......

Regards. Mark.(AKA, Mr.Nice.)

Reply to
Mr.Nice.

On or around Sat, 22 Jan 2005 13:03:21 +0100, "Ralph A. Schmid, DK5RAS" enlightened us thusly:

I trust there's some oil in it? :-)

Reply to
Austin Shackles

no, its just out of oil :)

Reply to
Marc

The message from Dan Burdge contains these words:

I generally have found the pipes to the fuel tank behind the seats have a crack, hence the smell of fuel, One is a funny shape for the filler about 2 inches across at one end 2 1/2 at the other end, the other pipe is 1/2 inch or so standard fuel pipe for air breather to tank.

Reply to
Warwick Barnes

Thanks, I'll have a look at these.

Reply to
Dan Burdge

So Dan Burdge was, like

Also lift the seat and seatbox panel and check it isn't weeping from the gaskets where the fuel take-off pipe and sender are fixed. If it's worse when full or nearly, that's the likely culprit.

Reply to
Richard Brookman

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