Shouldn't hurt.. disconnect the coil then try, that way you won't get your fingers squished in the fan belt :-)
Get ready for the dead fuel pump or iffy oil pressure switch causing fuel pump not to get 12v. Of course you could be lucky and it may just fire straight up.
Wheres me latch??? I'm toying with colour charts here! ;-)
Let me know how many spondoolees and where and I'll get em in the post. Paint beckons and the weathers on the downward slope now.
:-)
Body work is coming on a treat now... except the only time I can get my right hand feeling normal is with a sandiing block in it... anything else smarts.
Just pop the wire to the pressure switch off for 10 sec's or so with the ignition switched on - makes the fuel cut-out relay think the oil pressure is up and therefore allows the fuel pump to run and gets the juice up to the carb's. I have to do this on my V-8 SIII if she sits for more than a week. I must fit myself a "priming" switch sometime........
Which one? there are 3 wires on the 101, My experience is that nowt happens with them pulled off such is the wiring. It's not unknown due to poorly adjusted floats to fill a cylinder with petrol once the oil sensor gizmology has been removed. Not done it myself...yet.. but there is time.
Lee D
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If there are 3 wires, then I'm lost! As to flooding, well I haven't managed that yet either ...... but then I did say 10 sec's. I can hear mine pushing the air out and then the pump note drops a couple of tones once the floats close things off - takes about 10 sec's to reach that point, oddly enough. ;)
You'll be very lucky if you can get the oil pressure to come up at all after standing so long ( assuming its a V8) standard practice seems to be to change oil and filter and then undo the front cover of the pump and pack it with vaseline to get the pump to prime , once running the oil light should go out as normal . The pumps are fairly crap and will not lift oil from the sump if the pump housing is empty. ( see the Haynes V8 book) Steve the grease ( yet another Steve Taylor)
On or around Tue, 13 Jul 2004 13:59:21 GMT, "R L Driver" enlightened us thusly:
If the sump hasn't been drained, then it ought not to need repriming. normally only a problem if you manage to get the pump itself empty.
To help avoid this, drain the sump first, then refill it, then change the oil filter. Have the new filter, suitably filled with oil and with it's rubber ring oiled, ready to put on. unscrew the old one, and as fast as reasonably possible screw the new one back on. You might then be OK. You can, if you want, remove the plugs and shut off the petrol feed (or disconnect, somewhere - don't 101s have an electric pump?) and, with suitable big well-charged battery, crank 'er over a bit and see if you get any oil pressure. You should get enough to put the light out/register on the gauge, with cold oil at starter speed without compression.
failing that, fire 'er up (if she will :-)) and watch closely for signs of oil pressure - if no pressure within about say 30 seconds then shut it off and do the thing with the pump and vaseline; you'll want a new pump gasket to do that bit, so get that first.
Personally, I'd pull the distributor cap, check all is clean and dry within, and also pull the plugs for a looksee.
What kind of plug spanner do I need ? The one I have won't fit down the bloody hole to the plug, and I borrowed one from a mate last time, who is away on holiday.
Looks like the starter is knackered anyway. We got the starter relay to click, we can get the starter to spin, but the starter relay doesn't close the main contacts.
On or around Wed, 14 Jul 2004 10:30:36 +0100, Steve Taylor enlightened us thusly:
erm... on the V8, you need a socket one with an extension, and then on mine I had to grind down the wall of the socket for about the bottom 1/4". The plugs are apt to sit just inside the hole and not have much space around 'em.
might work if you pull it apart and fettle it. It's a pre-engaged starter, which means that the solenoid on the side firstly engages the gear by means of a lever and then when it hits the end of its travel it bridges the main contacts. If the lever or gear is stuck, it'll not work. If you supply current to the motor side or bridge across 'em, the motor spins but isn't engaged.
oh, and just to add amusement, the solenoid itself tends to earth through the motor windings, god knows why, so iffy brushes can stop it happening.
You can try the bodger's fix, which is to have an assistant turn the key to the "start" position while you hit the starter with a hammer, or more normally a crowbar. Takes a good strong tap, but don't hit it *too* hard. This sometimes dislodges stuck things and makes it go again.
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