v8 engine work - what else should i be changing and oil draining?

Pistons, for some with a decent compression ratio!

Chains stretch within 10,000 miles, sometimes quite a bit. it's a no-brainer mate, cheap as chips so replace chain and gears with a steel cam gear set from Real Steel. Part number AZ770, £23.50.

Ok as long as the ends are still round shaped and not wearing flat. There's a small flat machined portion on the extreme ends, as long as they haven't worn down to the flats they'll be ok. Check the rocker arms carefully for wear where the pushrod sits in the cup of the arm, and the underside of the rocker shafts where the arms bear on them.

Dunno is the quick answer, but I'd drain the oil anyway and pop the sump off for a damn good clean out and for access to the big-ends for piston removal as mentioned above.

No probs. Badger.

On or around Tue, 27 Mar 2007 17:43:06 +0100, Tom Woods enlightened us thusly:

rocker shafts can be worn, as can the rockers themselves, but it's not that cheap to replace all of 'em. You can assess rocker wear by putting it on an un-worn bit of the shaft.

yeah - i've had the prices off richard for rockers and shafts and they will make a noticable dent in the bank account if i replace them all, so would like to avoid if possible- and since i can do these later easily enough...

I'm going to have a good look at them over the next day or two and see if i can find any wear in em.

I did consider that - but using new pistons im looking at roughly £20/pot and if im going as far as pistons i might as well rebuild the whole bloody thing or just replace it! ;) Long term plans do hopefully include a bigger v8 anyhow ;) As soon as i see a 4+L rangie with autobox going spare and have some pennies and some space... This wasnt planned maintenance and i really want the truck on the road over the next 2 weeks since it is the school easter holidays which means i can drive it every day!

shoddy landrover parts... the chain in my saab is good for 100-150k! and the gear indefinately :) I assume that OEM will work as well as real steel?, (and be easier to get since i can just ask Richard to add them to my pile! :) )

assuming my heads dont need any work doing other than a valve lap im looking good for re-assembly over the weekend..

I will examine them all.

I'm just scared of having to prime the oil pump! (and because it is a bastard to get at on the 101 so i can imagine the ache in my arms after priming it) The valley bit is all fairly clean inside so im hoping the sump wont be bad. May take it off if i feel enthused, but i want to drive it more and was hoping to do so by monday or tuesday!

Thanks for the ideas badger!

Tom Woods uttered summat worrerz funny about:

O replaced the oil cooler pipes on Morph and lost no oil as such from the engine.. just what was in the cooler / pipes much to my relief.

Lee

i remember you saying that.. ive got to take the timing chain cover off too which i assume also encompasses the filter and oil pump assembly?

In which case it's not hard to pack the oil pump with vaseline before reassembly.

I'm getting worried now... any excuse to get the vaseline out ....

;-)

Lee D

I cant find anything in the manual about filling any orifices with vaseline. It does claim though that there is a hole i can fill with oil from a can which will be used to prime the pump. It also has a close up of said hole but i havent yet managed to find the section of the real engine that matches this closeup..

Should i believe the manual and not drain the oil or should i do it anyway since it has got to be done!...

Tom Woods uttered summat worrerz funny about:

Do it anyway... save stripping it down again later.

Lee

Lee_D uttered summat worrerz funny about:

Of course now you've got to try and buy a tub of vaseline without colouring up... akin to going to the shop soley for a role of tin foil and trying not to look like a drug dealer. (I don't cook often but I like my roast!) :-)

Lee D

Already bought it because its dead good for putting on battery terminals to stop them corroding and because i kept reading that i need it for 101 oil changes!

I did have it on the shelf in my utility room but had to hide it in the cupboard as i used to get too many questions!

On or around Wed, 28 Mar 2007 23:40:27 +0100, Tom Woods enlightened us thusly:

You only need the vaseline if you let the pump drain, V8 pumps won't self-prime. take the top off the pump and pack around the gears with vaseline, put the top back (buy a new gasket first otherwise it's guaranteed to break). You'll need an 8mm 12-point (or possibly 5/16", but 8mm will do it) to undo the pump screws.

no real need for this on normal oil-changes, though - I've yet to have one go wrong by doing the oil-change properly:

1) drain sump, as soon as it's empty, put plug back and refill 2) pre-fill new filter with oil and put close to hand. 3) remove old filter and immediately fit new one. 4) start engine ASAP and check that it's got pressure (light out or gauge)

Thats what austin just said isnt it?

i'll find out wether it all come out when i take the timing cover off tommorrow night :)

(see you later richard!)

Or, leave the old filter on. Drain the oil and re-fill. Then change the oil filter.

Richard

No, the important point is to start the engine after the oil change, run for a few seconds until the oil pressure comes up, then stop the engine and change the filter.

Martin

On or around Thu, 29 Mar 2007 12:12:41 +0100, "Oily" enlightened us thusly:

hmmm. I've never actually done that bit, maybe I've been lucky. against it as an idea is that it pumps old oil back into the sump from the filter, but since you can never really remove all the old oil, it's not a major issue.

AIUI, the big one to avoid is having the sump empty and the oil filter off at the same time.

Bags I stand in the chemists when they ask if he wants scented arf arf ( I googled it ) Derek

"Austin Shackles" wrote in message news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com...

Or alternatively remove the old filter fill the new filter with fresh oil and attach (the drawback being the cupful that finds its way down your sleeve) my favoured process and (on a TDi ) remove the solenoid wire so you just turn the engine over not put it under load. It was much easier on engines with a vertical aligned filter. Derek

With age comes wisdom and experience but usually I can't remember what the bloody question was!