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Wandering RRC

Hi Guys I have a 1985 Range Rover Classic.

I have replaced all the springs and suspension bushes with the heavy duty springs and original rubber bush kit. I have also replaced the ball joint. I also had to replace the steering column since the bottom bearing had disintegrated. The track rod ends have all been replaced as well as the drop arm ball joint. So basically the steering and suspension is new.

This project started because I thought the rear springs were sagging and grew as I discovered faults. The vehicle was handling fine before I started (I think!!)

The steering now feels too direct - I have adjusted the play in the steering box as per the book. At highway speeds the tail seems to sway gently and doesn't make me feel safe. And when cornering the vehicle seems to oversteer mid way through the corner. Almost as if something moved as the vehicle was turning the corner. Cornering on the freeway requires constant correction of the direction. Driving around town is great - vehicle handles fine at slower speeds.

Am I neurotic and is this how the vehicle should behave with new bushes etc? Was I too used to the sloppy handling??

Thanks

Paul

Reply to
Bob
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The heavy duty springs have raised the vehicle, causing reduced caster on the front axle. This is what is causing your steering problems - fit some caster-corrected radius arms and the problem will disappear.

Reply to
EMB

Think you have a possible accumulation of problems, depending on how much lift above standard you have introduced with the new springs, if the increased lift is two inch or more then the steering will not be as willing to self centre, as the castor angle will have changed. As for the other iffy handling characteristics, I sugest you get a prybar and check that all is tight and as it should be, paying particular attention to the rear axle A frame ball joint, as it's not always easy to get it right first time, another thing is the panhard rod, and it's drop arm bracket, The above locate the body latterally to the axles. Because of the amount of the suspension you have removed and refitted, it would be a good idea to retorque all the bolts anyway. When sorted the vehicle should drive and handle with neutral characteristics, and inspire confidence, which from the sound of it, yours is not yet there. Hope this helps

Reply to
Dad

On or around Wed, 11 Jan 2006 00:10:07 +1300, EMB enlightened us thusly:

depends how much higher it is. Anything over about 1" needs correction, ideally.

Reply to
Austin Shackles

Checked the panard rod bushes?

Lee

Reply to
Phantom

Can you explain what caster does? And where does one get caster corrected radius arms? In South Africa preferably.

Maybe I should replace the original springs since the front ones were fine. Sounds like a simple solution to me.

Thanks for your advice. Paul

Reply to
Bob

Good luck Icky

Reply to
icky

Panhard rod bushes are new.

I am guessing that the new springs lifted the front by 2 inches - it is quite an appreciable amount.

I think I will pop the original springs back this weekend. It makes sense since it has not been right since I replaced them.

Thanks for the advice. Paul

Reply to
Bob

On or around Wed, 11 Jan 2006 10:03:00 +0200, Bob enlightened us thusly:

caster (or castor) is what makes the steering self-straighten. Effectively, the front wheels operate like a supermarket trolley wheel, in other words, once moving forwards, they tend to run straight. in reverse, the opposite applies, which is why if you reverse very fast it can be more difficult to keep it straight.

If you raise the front end, you alter the angle of the swivel bearings, since the axle/swivel is held on the radius arm - the change in angle can be calculated by measuring the effective length of the radius arm (to the middle of the axle) and applying trigonometry to that and the amount of lift you have achieved. If you lowered the radius arm attachment at the rear of the front arms by the same as the lift, you'd get the same caster angle as you had before.

There are 2 fixes: different radius arms, which have the mountings for the axle bushes at a different angle, so the axle is returned to its intended orientation, or different swivel housings, in which the swivel bearing positions are altered to get the angle correct. In either case, you need to know how much lift to get the correct one for the job.

Reply to
Austin Shackles

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